Tutorials

Tutorial: Invisible Zipper

If you have never tried installing an invisible zipper in a garment, you might be just a wee bit intimidated.

But honestly, I think they are easier to put in than regular zippers, and they definitely elevate theÂ “ready to wear” (RTW) look of your garments.

Invisible zips are bestÂ for garments made ofÂ light to medium-weight fabric, and should beÂ placed into a garment seam. Nothing exposed for these babies. 😉 Because the â€œteethâ€ on invisible zips roll to the under side of your garment, once installed they really are invisible except for the small zipper pull. The zipper teeth are also a bit smaller than those on a â€œregularâ€ polyester coil or metal zipper, so invisible zips are not commonly used in heavy weight fabrics or in situations that require constant opening and closing. Be sure to buy a zipper that is longer than your opening. You will not be able to stitch beyond the zipper pull, so extra length is extra insurance, and any excess is easy enough to cut off.

I like to put invisible zips into a “flat” or completely open seam, instead of partially sewing up the seam like you would do with a centered, “regular” style zipper. I also think an invisible zipper foot for your specific sewing machine model is definitely worth the investment; truly, it will make the job So.Much.Easier. Although, you rarely have to encourage me to buy specialty machine feet. The “special” engineering that enables them to perfectly perform their function makes these feet worth every penny, IMHO.

So, here are a fewÂ tools/supplies that will make the invisible zipper installation job a bit easier. Of course, you will need a sewing machine + basic sewing supplies + an invisible zipper. Duh! 🙂
1. Invisible zipper foot, or (less desirable) a regular zipper foot
2. Fabric marker or chalk marker
3. Interfacing strips

Step 1. Preparing the seam allowance

Finish the edges of your garment in whatever manner you choose. In my sample, I have serged the edges.

Step 2. Stabilizing

Stabilize the stitching line. I keep strips of fusible interfacing handy just for this purpose. I usually cut the strips about Â¾ of an inch wide on the straight grain. Make sure to fuse the interfacing over the stitching line for the full length of the zipper. In my sample, the stitching line will be 5/8 of an inch from the fabric edge, so the interfacing completely covers that area of the fabric.

Step 3. Marking

Draw a vertical line on the right side (RS) of your garment that is 1/8 of an inch more than the seam allowance for your garment. In my sample, the seam allowance is 5/8 of an inch, so I drew a line Â¾ of an inch from the fabric edge (5/8 + 1/8 = 6/8 = Â¾). Do this on both sides of your garment fabric.

This â€œextraâ€ 1/8 of an inch is to allow the invisible zipper teeth to â€œunrollâ€ while you are stitching the zipper to the fabric.

Also draw a horizontal line 1/8 or Â¼ of an inch + your seam allowance from the top edge of both sides of the Â garment.

Note: Exactly where you draw this horizontal line depends on how the top edge of your garment is to be finished. If you are adding a waistband, allow only a small amount more than your seam allowance. If you will be facing the top edge and adding a hook and eye closure, add about Â¼ of an inch to allow for the â€œturn of clothâ€ plus the hook and eye.

Step 4. Pinning

Lay the open (unzipped!) zipper RS down onto the RS of your fabric, aligning the edge of the zipper teeth with the vertical line and the zipper stop with the horizontal line you drew on the fabric. Pin or baste the zipper to the fabric.

Step 5. First side stitching

Starting at the top edge of the zipper (above the zipper stop), stitch the Â first side with a 2.5 or 3.0 straight stitch length. It doesn’t matter which side you stitch first, but since I started on the left side, I am using the left-most side of the invisible zipper foot.

Stitch down as far as you can, or to the marked “zipper stop) point on your garment.Â To secure the bottom of the zipper edge, you can backstitch for a few stitches, or shorten your stitch length when you are about Â½ inch away from the bottom of the zipper.

Note: You can see that it is impossible to stitch beyond the bottom end of an invisibleÂ zipper because of the pull size/placement, so using a “too long” zipper is always better than one that is too short. Just stitch as far as possible, or to your marked zipper stop.

Step 6. Second side stitching

Draw a chalk line across the bottom of the zipper where you endedÂ the first stitching line. This chalk line allows you to stop the stitching on the second side of the zipper in exactly the same place as the first side.

Then just repeat steps 4 and 5 for the second side of the zipper, placing the other side of the zipper on the second side of the fabric. Be sure to stop stitching right on the chalk mark!

Step 7. Garment seam closure

Using a regular zipper foot, stitch the remainder of the garment. seam closed. I find it easier to draw the stitching line on the garment first, since I am using a regular zipper foot and have adjusted the needle position accordingly. Be sure to stop your stitching at the same spot as the bottom edge of your zipper stitching, and either backstitch or reduce your stitch length near the end of the seam to secure the stitching.

Step 8. Press

Press your garment! A good press and shot of steam if appropriate for your fabric makes a world of difference in the finished look. Donâ€™t skip this step! Look how perfectly the bottom edges line up!

A few other optionsâ€¦.

If you want a more finished look on the end of your zipper, you can wrap the end of the zipper tape with matching or contrasting fabric. This is an especially good idea if you have cut off some of the zipper length.
Try securingÂ the zipper tape to theÂ seam allowance only, either for part or the entire length of the zipper. This provides additional security, and also keeps the zipper tape from â€œflappingâ€ inÂ the seam allowance during wearing.
If you do not have an invisible zipper foot for your sewing machine, it is perfectly possible to install an invisible zipper with a standard zipper foot. You may to practice just a bit to get the stitching in the correct place so the tape doesnâ€™t show from the outside and making sure the zipper will still â€œzip up!â€

Do you prefer invisible, or regular zippers? Which do you think are easiest to install?

Happy sewing!
Maris

Tutorial: Quick-to-make Wooly Lamb Christmas Ornament

It’s December, so it is totally OK to start talking, thinking, planning and making for the holidays! My family celebrates Christmas, so the project I am going to show you how to make today is designed for a Christmas tree. So when Deanna McCool asked me to participate in her 12 Days of Christmas Blog Tour, this project jumped immediately to top of mind. But it is so cute I think it would also make a darling package topper for lots of different holidays or gift-giving occasions.

Supplies needed:

Black felt
White “wooly lamb” fake fur
Narrow red ribbon
Small bell
Stuffing
Gold metallic thread (optional)

Pattern: PDF download for lamb body and face

1. Using the PDF pattern download, cut 2 lamb bodies from the fake fur.Â Also cut 1 lamb face and 4 legs (approximately 2 inches x 1/4 inch) from the black felt.

2. Place the face on one end of the body. Don’t worry about exact placement; just get it pretty close to oneÂ end. Using a satin zig-zag stitch (my settings were SW=4.0 and SL=Â 1.0) and gold metallic thread, embroider 2 eyes on the felt face. If the eyes don’t line up exactly or are not the identical size, have a glass of wine and proceed to step 3. 😉

3. Arrange the felt legs across the bottom edge, and baste in place about 1/8″ from the edge of the fur. Also add a red ribbon loop at the top edge for hanging, and baste that in place as well.

4. Pin the ear and the hanging loop away from the outside edges so that these 2 items do not accidentally get caughtÂ when youÂ stitch around the body. You will leave this pin Â in place for the next step, so make sure none of the pin is close to the outer edge either!

5. Place the second lamb body on top of the “decorated” one, and stitch around the outside edge, leaving a hole to add the stuffing. Check to make sure there are no “extra” holes in your stitching; it is easy to get the alignment of the outside edges off when you are stitching on bulky fabric like fake fur.Â If you do have a hole, just re-stitch over that area connecting with the “good” stitching. 😉

6. Turn the lamb right side out being careful to not get poked with the pin! Remove the pin as soon as you can reach it; this might prevent a puncture wound! 😉

7. Add a bit of stuffing to round out your lamb, andÂ stitch the hole closed by hand. (True Confessions: I often skip this step. Yep. LAZY!)

8. Cut another bit of ribbon and threadÂ a bell on it. Tie an overhand knot and hang it around your lamb so you will hear it when it tries to sneak off.

I hope you enjoyed this quick and fun Christmas ornament project! See how cute he looks againstÂ a green tree? start to finish this project takes about 15-20 minutes, so you can make a pile of them to add to packages or give as a little gift or party favor. Be sure to check out the other bloggers on tour!

Don’t forget to visit all of the bloggers who are creating tutorials for the Sew McCool 12 Days of Christmas challenge! Voting will begin on www.sewmccool.com on December 13 and go through 11:59 p.m. U.S. Eastern time on December 20. The blogger with the most votes will win $100 – just in time for Christmas!

December 1

Ren @ The Inspired Wren * Stephanie @ Swoodson Says * Alicia @ Felt With Love Designs

December 2

Natalie @ Sew Outnumbered *Deby @ So-Sew-Easy * Ajaire @ Call Ajaire

December 3

Amy @ Friends Stitched Together * Maris @ Sew Maris * Gemia @ Phat Quarters

December 4

Amy @ How I Make Stuff * Michelle @ Falafel and the Bee

December 5

Beth @ Beth Jarrett * Jen @ Just Joshin

December 6

Lauren @ Molly and Mama * Krista @ Bee Quilted Beauties

December 7

Vicky @ Vicky Myers Creations * Deb @ Sprouting Jube Jube

December 8

Addie @ Addie K * Michelle @ Not My Tree

December 9

Ula @ Lulu & Celeste * Sara @ Made By Sara * Chelsea @ GYCT Designs

December 10

Nichole @ Bluebird & the Boy * Darcy @ Ginger House Designs * Shelly @ Coral & Co.

December 11

Amy @ Britches ‘n Bloomers * Kelly @ Kelly J Designs

December 12

Maegen @ Mae and K * Jess @ Gracious Threads * Jone @ Knot Sew Normal

Happy sewing,

Maris

Tutorial: How to Make Bias Binding

I love the look of binding, and it is definitely not just for quilts (cuz we all know I don’t quilt!).

Making your own binding using cute prints is a snap to do, and the look of homemade binding always trumps both the look and the feel of the purchased product. The method I am going to show you today is useful for making a small amount of binding. If you need yards and yards, it is better to make continuous biasâ€”but that is a tutorial for another day!

I like 100% cotton fabric for most of my binding needs, but any lightweight fabric that presses well will work. For most of my needs I like a finished binding width of 1/2″, which means I start with strips of fabric 2 inches wide, or 4 times whatever I want the the finished width to be.

Supplies needed:

Cotton fabric, a minimum of 1/4 yard
Clover 1 inch wide bias tape maker
Rotary cutter
Self-healing cutting mat
Marking tool of your choice (I love Frixion pens)
Thread
Iron
Sewing machine (duh!!)

How to Make 1/2 Inch (finished) Bias Binding

1. Â Draw a line on your fabric at a 45 degree angle to the selvage edge, and then cut on this marked line. This 45 degree line is called the true bias.

2. Â Next, cut 2 inch wide strips fromÂ the bias edge.

3. Â Right sides together, lay 1 bias strip on top of another, and draw a line at a 45 degree angle and pin. Make sure that the direction of the line will createÂ a long continuous strip.
4. Â Continue in the same manner, adding as many strips as you need to create the amount of binding you want.

5. Â Arrange several (or all!) Â “pinned junctions” on top of your sewing machine, and sew in a continuous path.

6. Â Cut the stitching apart, and trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch.
7. Â Press the seam allowances open.

8. Â Insert one end of the bias fabric strip into the Clover bias tape maker tool. You might need a wooden skewer or pin to help get the fabric moving through the tape maker.

9. As the bias tape comes out of the narrow end of the tape maker tool, pressÂ with your iron.

9. Â Press again in half, slightly favoring one side.

You just made your very own bias tape. Congrats!

Happy sewing!

Maris

Tutorial: How to Draft a 1-Piece Collar

A 1-piece collar, you say? Why in the world would I want to make/use one of those crazy-looking things?

The first few shirts I made for my husband I did not use a I-piece collar pattern. What was the point, after all? Well, in time, I realized that eliminating the seam on the front edge of the collar produces a smoother line. And the collar and the front placket is your first impression of a shirt. Uh huh. So make it count, people.

Also, my husband loves a good button-down, and eliminating some of the bulk in the collar point area enabled me to create a better-looking buttonhole. Â OK, so far that’s 2 points for a 1-piece collar.

What about the downsides? Well, you have to draft it yourself, usually. I don’t believe I have ever seen a pattern with this piece included. Now, I haven’t seen every pattern produced (my husband would disagree, based on the size of my pattern stash!), but for sure it is not the norm in a shirt pattern.

Because the shape is a little wonky, a 1-piece collar requires a bit more fabric thanÂ the more typical upper collar and under collar pattern pieces. It just doesn’t fit easily into the little sections of fabric that are often “reserved” for collars, cuffs, and other fiddly little who-ha’s.

Alright. That’s 2 for, and 2 against; a wash. Let’s talk about how you can draft your own 1-piece collar, and you can decide when/where you want to use it.

1.Â Trace aÂ new, full size copy ofÂ your upper collar pattern piece, and draw the stitching lines on both of the front collar edges.
2.Â Trace 2 copies of the under collar pattern piece, and draw the stitching lines on both of the collar front edges.

3.Â Lay the under collar pieces on top of the upper collar piece, aligning the stitching lines. Make sure that the collar point end of the under collar is attached tot eh collar point end of the upper collar. Tape to secure.
4.Â Trim da “wings”. 🙂

In the image above,Â the collar pattern is folded on the front edges, and you are looking atÂ the under collar folded on top of the upper collar. You can see the overlap of the under collar pieces at the center back, right? Of course those 2 pieces are seamed during construction, but this shows you how the weird flying bird-shaped pattern piece actually looks like a collar when it is sewn.

That’s pretty much all there is to it.Â Actually, really simple pattern drafting, right?

One more thing. I like to shave a bit off the collar edgeÂ (closest to the bottom in this image) and the center back of the under collar only. Why?Â Because the under collar isÂ on the bias and willÂ “grow” a bit. Since I want the under collar to actually be under the upper collar, it helps to reduce the dimensions of this pattern piece slightly. Only logical, right?

Oh, I guess there is anotherÂ thing. It will save you timeÂ if you also draft a separate interfacing pattern piece for this collar. I like the interfacing pattern piece toÂ cover onlyÂ the upper collar section, and not extend onto the under collar at the fold. Less bulk which keeps that front edge fold smooth and perfect. Again, only logical.

For another tutorial on this subject (and a glimpse of my cute DH!), you can check out my Craftsy post on How to Make a One-Piece Shirt Collar.

Or, if you prefer, you can watch a quick, little video I made to demo this process.

Have you ever drafted/sewn a 1-piece collar? What did you like about using a single collar piece compared to a separate under and upper collar piece?

Happy sewing!

Maris

Tutorial: How to Hem Jeans (and Stop Paying For Hemming Alterations)

If you own a decent sewing machine, all you need to do is buy a couple of inexpensive tools and you will be all set to hem your own jeans and casual pants. As a matter of fact, you could quickly start charging your friends to do their hemming alterations!

Here are the tools/supplies you will need:

Size 100 Jeans needle
Jean-a-majig
Denim or topstitching thread to match the garment
Scissors
Sewing machine

Watch this video to learn just how easy it is to properly hem a pair of jeans. You’ve got this, peeps!!

Happy sewing!

Maris

Tutorial: How to Sew a Blind Hem

You love to sew, but maybe you are a little low on time to create the kind of garments you can be proud to wear. Or maybe all you need is a clear explanation and a simple, clear demonstration of the technique you have been itching to try.

Let’s start with the way ready-to-wear garments are hemmed in manufacturing. Duh! By using an invisible or blind hem on a sewing machine, that’s how. There is no time for hand hemming in a manufacturing process.

Soooo, if youÂ are not exactly sure how large your hem depth should be, or the proper amount of hem turn back, or how to orient your fabric under the sewing machine, this video will give you the answers you need. Give this technique a try! All you need is a blind hem stitch and a blind hem foot for your sewing machine. Oh. And a garment that needs to be hemmed.

There, that wasn’t so hard, was it? Now get out there and hem like a pro! (Psssst! Practice helps tremendously, btw. ;-))

Happy sewing!

Maris