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Book Review: Sew…The Garment-Making Book of Knowledge

Just to be up-front, I am a bit of a Barb Emodi fan-girl. I actually think Barb and I are kind of like two halves of the same person. We both have been sewing since right after the dawn of time, have children + grand-children, love to sew, and maybe most importantly, love to experiment with fabrics and sewing tools, and products. I climb up on my soapbox about lots of stuff in today’s world, and one of them is I think there is a great shortage of tinkering with real, tangible things that make you mutter, “Huh. That is how it works.” Experimentation is a great teacher, and I think loads of people could benefit from a bit more of it.

But enough digression. The real thing I want to say is I LOVE Barb’s new book, Sew…The Garment-Making Book of Knowledge. I have actually said many of the same things she writes to my students. Sometimes.Using.The.Exact.Same.Words. See why I think we are two halves of the same person?

Her book is both very enjoyable to read and filled with plenty of tips and advice about the nuts and bolts of sewing. Not exactly a technique or how-to-sew instructional guide, you still will definitely learn a trick or two about the process of sewing clothing (no quilting here, thank you very much!). Or maybe you will get inspired to start sewing again, or possibly sew in a different way. And all of those are great things, IMHO.

“When you sew, I think what you make most often is a life, not just clothes. Sewing is deceptive that way. As an activity, it looks practical and seems sensible. That is just a cover. Sewing gives those who engage in it so much more than something to wear.”

YES! That is a great summary of why I sew. Why I am active in The American Sewing Guild. In Facebook sewing groups. Obsess over fabrics, tools, and products for sewing. Because sewing is one of the most important structures of my life, and it definitely gives me more than clothes to wear. Thank you, Barb!

Barb has a chapter on

what you should sew (duh – what you love!)
some ideas on how to pick a good pattern for your sewing level or what you want to sew
reminds you how important it is to MEASURE your body + use those measurements to help you alter a flat pattern to improve the fit for your shape
describes some common fabrics types and how to handle them before you even cut out your pattern pieces
the “gear” side of sewing (tools, machines and stuff)
how to create a sewing strategy that works for you
and…sewing for JOY

I laughed out loud while reading this book. Plus it brought back many memories of sewing with my mom when I was very young, as well as reminding me of recent sewing adventures with my students. Do yourself a favor. Pour a beverage of your choice, and curl up with Sew…The Garment-Making Book of Knowledge.

Happy sewing!

Maris

What is the right sewing machine for you?

*** Updated 11/15/2017

The short answer: the best one you can afford to buy. Good engineering costs money, plain and simple. If you really want to learn how to sew, you are going to need to invest in a piece of equipment that will make your new hobby enjoyable rather than an exercise in frustration. If you buy a machine for less than $100 don’t complain about it to me. I warned you. Also, buying a sewing machine is like buying a car – it’s personal. I like touch screensÂ and push buttons and hate rollerballs and dial-a-stitch controls, while you might prefer them.

First, let’s talk about some things that make my top 10 7 essential features list for a sewing machine:

Needle up/down control. This is a button that causes your needle to always stop in the “up” or “down” position when you stop pressing on the foot pedal.
Needle position control. If there is one thing I really despise in a sewing machine, it is a couple of stitch selections with preset needle positions (left, center, or right) rather than the ability to move the needle to 5, 7 or 9 different needle positions during sewing.
Automatic buttonhole. One that looks decent, please.
Stitch length adjustment. Another “feature” that makes me scream is a bunch of pre-set stitch lengths. Let me control my own stitch length, puh-leeze.
Stitch width adjustment. Read #4. Ditto.
A motor that is strong enough to stitch through at least 4 layers of heavy denim. I like to make jeans, after all.
Loads of accessory presser feet.

OK, now we can talk about sewing machine manufacturers. Bernina. I like Berninas. I think Berninas are best. I have owned Berninas for almost 40 years. Couldn’t be happier. So that’s my BEST advice. But if you don’t want to spend upwards of $1000 for a sewing machine, here are a couple of other options that might take you a long ways on your sewing journey.

Pfaff and Viking are also premium brands, and there are loads if my friends in ASG who happily own these machines.
Janome. I LOVE Janome, and I think they are the best engineered “lesser cost” machines. Full disclosure, I do own 5 of the now-discontinued Janome DC 2014 model. All of my beginning students sew on these machines, and love their ease-of-use and simplicity. Since I purchased these machines, Janome has discontinued this product line, which is too bad because it was a machine at the just-under-$500 price range that I think was a great value.
Brother is the brand I most often see kids bring into my sewing studio. I am not in love with Brother machines. At all. They are not nearly heavy-duty enough for my needs, BUT if you are willing to spend at least a few hundred bucks, and preferably $300-$400, you can get something serviceable. ***UPDATE 1/21*** One of my most awesome sewing-student-moms informed me that you MUST askÂ your Brother dealer whether the model you are looking at has internal METAL moving parts. Thank you, HeathC. 😉 Metal moving parts = better engineering = less likely to fail/cause stitch problems = happier sewing student = happier sewing instructor. One quick test for metal – pick up the machine. Metal machines are heavier. Duh.
I am least familiar with Babylock sewing machines, but they make a damn fine serger and coverstitch machine.
Singer. Generally I don’t allow Singers to fraternize with my Berninas.
Toy machines for kids. My comment on those machines cannot be published.

Where should youÂ purchase a sewing machine?

For gawd’s sake do not order a machine on the inter-net. Would you order a car you had never driven from an online source?
Find a great dealer and test drive LOTS of different models. And manufacturers.
Be sure to also test used machines. People trade up for new features, so it is easy to find good quality, used machines from reputable dealers that have been completely serviced.
Craig’s list. NOT! Unless you are really familiar with sewing machine functionality (which you aren’t because you are reading this), you don’t know enough to buy a used machine from someone on Craig’s list.

Oh wait. You want to know SPECIFICALLY what machine to buy? And where? If you live in the greater Seattle area…..

Pick something in the 3xx series or higher from Sewing Machine Service, also known as Bernina of Renton. Notice in the lower right corner they were just awarded Dealer of the Year for the western district a couple of years back.Â Those are MY guys.
I have heard mixed results about Quality Sew and Vac dealers, but I think they might be the only option in our area for Brother and Janome. Go in and try out a few different models, and definitely have them sew through 4 layers of heavy denim.Â Pretty much any motor can sew through quilting cotton. Try to avoid the Project Runway/Hello Kitty/ or any other co-branded machines. You are paying something for that licensing, and it is not reflected in better engineering.
There is a Viking dealership in Renton, so you could check out Viking and Janome there. No inside info on their customer service tho, sorry.

Good luck, and happy sewing!

Maris

Vintage Vogue 2090: The “Madeline” Coat

Both of my daughters LOVED the “Madeline” series by Ludwig BemelmansÂ when they were young girls. Well, my DGD shares some personality traits with the intrepid Madeline, so of course I hadÂ to make her a “Madeline” coat!

This pattern is Vogue 2090, which is long out-of-print, but still available on Etsy and eBay. This pattern was produced back-in-the-day when patterns were “single size”, instead of the multi-sized patterns we are accustomed to today, so plan ahead when purchasing! I originally bought this pattern when Oona was an infant, in size 3, so there was a some grading required to use it for my now-5-year-old DGD!

One of the perks of being a grandmother is I pay no attention to practicality. A wool coat for a child who will likely grow out of it in a single season. Pffft! Who cares! 🙂 I don’t pay attention to how much garments for her cost, I only spend my time sewing things that we both like; and she loves this coat. When I was a young mother, a wool coat would have been reserved for church and special occasions, but I love that Oona wears Madeline coat to pre-school, the playground, and shopping. Why let something hang in the closet just to be outgrown?.

As mentioned, this coat is made from wool flannel that I had in my stash. It was not particularly heavy, so I underlined the entire garment in cotton flannel to add warmth. The pattern also did not call for a lining, so I drafted one because I knew the lack of a slippery lining would be a non-starter. Who likes pulling unlined coat sleeves off, anyway?

Many sewists think making a wool coat is a big undertaking. Well, it can be, but this coat was easy and went together quickly. Of course, I made it more time-consuming by adding flannel underlining and a rayon Bemberg lining, but it was worth the extra effort.

Don’t you love the capelet? Oona does!

My DGD loves all things “golden”, so of course I used shiny gold for the front closure, as well as the decorative-only sleeve buttons.

As you can see, this coat is not at all restrictive! Tree-climbing, twirling, and jumping are all possible!

Somebody could be a pouty runway model, at age 5, right?

I had so much fun making this coat I already have another planned in fuschia linen for Easter. I am going to combine a couple of patterns for that garment, andÂ I think I will leave it unlined just to see how that works for a spring/summer coat.

Have you ever made a wool coat for a child? What was your favorite coat pattern for a child?

Happy sewing!

Maris

A Vintage Christmas Dress for Oona

My DGD is 5 this year, and that girl loves dresses. BUT. She has opinions. Sparkly, golden, twirly, not-scratchy are all good things.

I used a vintage Nannette pattern for Oona’s Christmas creation, McCallsÂ 9479. I made viewÂ the short and sweet dress version from red cotton velveteen with a sparkly red tulle overskirt. There is no such thing as too much sparkle for my gal! Since Oona is a skinny-minny, the size 4 was closest to her body measurements, butÂ since she is also tall I was just able to squeeze another 2 inches out of the yardage for theÂ the skirt length.

The construction was fast and simple. I decided to line the bodice rather than use facings for a cleaner finish on the inside. A scrap of white cotton from my stash fit the bill for that job.

I love the finishÂ on the sleeve hem. The sleeve facing makes the curved hem lay flat, andÂ a quick hand stitching around the top facing edge makes the sleeve finish smooth and pretty on the outside, too. Winning! Isn’t it funny how little details like a faced sleeve hem excite us sewists? Try explaining that feeling at your next cocktail party!

I gathered the tulle and the velveteen together for the skirt, but kept the tulle as a separate overskirt so someone could not complain about any tulle itching on the inside, See, I am learning. Both layers are stitched to the bodiceÂ first, and then I serged the edges to control those pesky velveteen ravels. The skirt is very wide, so all the bulk of the gathered velveteen made the skirt superÂ twirly. Bonus points!

Oona cooperated for a fitting session, and I was shocked that the dress was barely long enough, even with the addition of 2 inches to the skirt hem. Soooo, I cheated on the hem finish and used my serger to run a narrow 3-thread stitch along the hemline. I figured a rolled hem would be too wonky on velveteen, and I have found the narrow 3-thread stitch looks very similar to a rolled hem and isn’t so fussy to make. And with the tulle overskirt my “fake hem” doesn’t show at all. Sorry Shirley, I know you taught me better. But tough times call for tough solutions!

I couldn’t find a single ribbon I liked for the dress that was the width I wanted, so I stitched some Christmas plaid to a red satin ribbon. And that narrow 3-thread serger stitch? It creates the perfect belt carriers. A quick hand stitch to tack the carriersÂ to the inside of the bodice and the ribbon sash stays in place, even when twirling!

I originally had made a summer dress for Oona’s mother using the same pattern,Â but view B with the scalloped hem and collar. It was really aÂ fun memoryÂ to makeÂ a dress for Oona with a pattern that I had originally used for her mom!

Best.Interfacing.Ever SALE!

Have you ever tried interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply? If you are still using that papery stuff (you know, that name that rhymes with felon), do yourself a favor. Buy the good stuff. You are worth it, and your garments deserve the best.

From now until December 3rd the uh-mazing professional interfacing is 15% off. The sale applies to all colors and styles in stock, up to a maximum of 5 yards per product. Don’t delay too long, as some products sell out during the sale period. I use the Shirt Crisp in all the shirts I make for theÂ men in my life, and I use Light Shirt Crisp in my shirts. I love the Pro-Tricot Deluxe Fusible for knits, and I also use it for lightweight wovens.

Have you tried any of the interfacing products from Fashion Sewing Supply??Â Which one is your fav go-to interfacing product?

Happy sewing!

Maris

Pattern Review: McCalls 5591 + Butterick 6182

I am pretty sure I am in love.

Bottom first. McCalls 5591, with pretty soft pleats and POCKETS, is definitely the fav skirt inÂ my closet right now. Add the fact that I made it from the leftover yardage from my crazy-linen-pants-making-marathon this summer makes me feel absolutely parsimonious. “Frugal” + “Maris” + “anything-related-to-sewing” are not normally combined in a single sentence. Oh, and did I mention all the fabric (black linen, white linen, and black stretch lace) was from my stash? That’s right. Extra points for frugality! 🙂

I made view A of the skirt so I could make good use of both pieces of leftover linen, and also get that classy hem band finish. Black and white is my favorite color palette anyway, so naturally this combo was my jam. I wore the heck out of this skirt over the summer, and loved it more each time I had it on. It is very Kate Spade, don’t you think? Polished, sophisticated, comfortable, feminine…..really, I can’t think of anything bad to say about this skirt. Except maybe the fact the patternÂ is out-of-print now. Good luck with Etsy and eBay!

One issue was I didn’t have anything in my wardrobe that I thought was the perfect topper for this perfect skirt, tho. AndÂ who wants a lonelyÂ orphan skirt hanging in the closet?

My eldest DD owns a pretty black lace top, and I tried it on once myÂ skirt was completed, just to see if the look/length/etc. were right. Yep, winner-winner-chicken dinner!

I hemmed and hawed about which pattern I would use to try to re-create my DD’s top, and finally decided to hack Lisette’s B6182. If you check out the technical drawings on that pattern, you will see darts in the center front seam. I pinned those out, and set the front pattern piece on the fold instead of creating a center front seam line in lace. I did sort of just smash the tissue flat while I was cutting out the lace, which of course is not-great-patternmaking-practice, BUT. It was a knit, ladies! Definitely easier to break the rules with knits, and I took full advantage.

I used bias strips of the leftover black linen to bind the neck and hem, and also cut the cuffs from the black linen. I already had a short black cami to wear underneath, and a couple of shoe options, so outfit complete. BAM!

I finished this outfit in July, and yes it is crazy that it took me so long to blog about it. But if you can find the skirt pattern, or are lucky enough to have it in your stash right now, MAKE.THIS.SKIRT! Then we can gush together about how great ~~we look~~it is.

Happy sewing!

Maris