Sew Maris

Vogue 1043 Review

03 March | 2016

There are times when a pattern just calls your name.

You know what I am talking about. Those times when a pattern can transport you to a different life. In this case, one that does not include washing dishes or cleaning bathrooms. But DOES include wearing crinolines. 🙂

I don’t really have that many occasions to wear a silk “party” dress. But at a recent ASG dinner we were hosting some lovely ladies from McCall’s Pattern Company, and had been asked to wear a garment made from any of the McCall’s family of patterns. Vogue is usually my McCall’s pattern company of choice, and since I had the black silk dupioni, Bemberg lining, pattern, AND vintage mother-of-pearl belt buckle in my stash, how could I resist?

This pattern is really an easy sew. I have only made one other vintage reproduction pattern, and found it to be easy to assemble as well. The one change I did make was to fully line the top, rather than applying facings. I decided not to line the skirt, because as usual I was short on construction time and needed to get.it.done. I may go back and add a skirt lining later, but those big ole almost-circle-skirts take a lot of fabric and I am not sure I want to use up my Bemberg lining stash for this dress.

I hand-picked the zipper in place, mostly because I was terrified to machine stitch over the folds of the tuck on the bodice. That just seemed like a hot mess waiting to happen. With all the texture on silk dupioni no one could tell if my stitches are even and consistently placed or not. Winning!

Love the sleeve gussets. A little fiddly to set in, but not that bad. Of course because I lined the bodice I got to do it 4 times instead of just 2. Serves me right, eh?

The one fitting/wearing issue with this dress is keeping the upper front edges of the bodice laying flat and smooth. Part of this issue I probably created myself by pulling the stay tape a bit too tight. You know me – if a little is good, more is better, right? I added a small section of boning to each side after construction (stitched to the seam allowance), but I don’t think it helped too much. Maybe more boning? This is a good application for body tape, which I did wear at the Sew Expo dinner. I will try it once without tape, and see how annoying it is before attempting to redo the boning. Talk about fiddly!

I.LOVE.THIS.DRESS.

I would love to make it again in a light cotton voile for summer. A Liberty fabric would be gorgeous, but would cost a fortune to make up.

Have you ever sewn a vintage or a vintage reproduction pattern? Do you consider “vintage” part of your style?

Happy sewing,

Maris

Sequins are a (little) girl’s best friend

10 February | 2016

Sometimes after a prolonged preoccupation with shirt-making, a 15 minute sewing project is welcome.

I give you the pull-on sequin skirt. Best for little girls, tho maybe under the right circumstances….. 🙂

Last week I saw a cutie-pie in the grocery store wearing a sequin skirt with her rain boots, and knew my boot-wearing-granddaughter (who loves all things sparkly, princess-y, and jewel-like) would totally lose her mind to have one just like it. True confession: I have NEVER sewn on sequined fabric before. (Tho you can barely call the wimpy-netting-sequin-y stuff fabric.) True confession: I bought this stuff at Jo-ann Fabrics. Not my fave fabric store. True confession: I never made anything so frivolous and impractical for my daughters. Something I now greatly regret and am trying to make amends for with my grand.

Easy-peasy quick sew. I cut the fabric using an almost-ready-for-a-new-blade rotary cutter so the sequins didn’t dull a fresh blade instantly. Stitched up the one seam using a triple zig-zag stitch. Don’t ask me why—it just seemed like a good idea! Made a circle of purple fold-over elastic and used the same triple zig-zag stitch to attach to one end of the skirt tube, thereby making it the skirt waist.

Done and done. Nope, no hemming. No finishing of any kind. Fifteen minutes and it was all over but the photographing. Shirley (my dear mom, my first sewing teacher, and the goddess of sewing perfection) is definitely rolling over in her grave. 😉

The cutie I saw wearing the inspiration skirt styled it with leggings underneath, a knit top, and rain boots. So Pacific Northwest! If I can capture my DGD wearing this skirt I will be sure to grab a snap or too for photo evidence.

I definitely recommend this skirt for a quick palate-cleansing sewing project. Have you ever sewn a sparkly sequin garment for a little girl? For yourself? It was so.much.easier than I thought it would be! Maybe there are some sparkles in my future, too. 😉

Happy sewing!

Maris

The Right Exercise for Any Body

14 January | 2016

Namaste.

More Strong is the New Skinny—thank you again for this opportunity, Becca DuVal!

I am no fitness expert, but for my money yoga might just be the best all-round exercise programs for people of any age. If not the best, it certainly ranks right up there.

I was slow to embrace yoga. Remember, running was more my style when I was younger. Frankly, it was hard to me to be “still and quiet” during my practice. I like to make most group experiences social opportunities, so not talking for an over an hour in a room full of people was ummm, challenging?

I think if you are open to new information and experiences, you actually DO get wiser as you get older. Now, yoga is a core part of my workout routine, and if I miss a practice or two, my body starts talking back to me. Complaining, actually. The older you get, the more you need to work on flexibility, balance and strength—all core components of yoga. I never used to have any difficulty with balance, but I am just not as steady on my feet as I was when I was younger. Almost everyone needs to improve their flexibility, and the wonderful stretching and gentle encouragement from instructors to press/push/pull a little more promotes openness in your muscles and joints.

Oh, geez. My right foot position is not right in this pose. Better work on that. I love that “workouts” are called “practices” in yoga. Definitely reduces the perfectionist pressure. 😉 One thing I would recommend is that you take yoga classes with a good instructor for a while instead of attempting it on your own with a DVD. It is really helpful to have a trained instructor check on your poses and offer advice to correct your alignment. I still do the vast, vast majority of my yoga practice in a class with an instructor. You can talk AFTER class, you know! 🙂

If you read my strength-training post the other day, I mentioned I have osteoarthritis in my hands, so that means I have to be careful about too many weight-bearing poses on my hands. It definitely bums me out that down dog is mostly out for me, but I alternate with some down puppy and cat-cow poses, and occasionally sneak in a down dog just because it feels so good. I was trying out the same new workout top, Jalie 2444 and pants, and the top is as great for yoga as strength training. Yay for dual-purpose clothing!

Similar to swimming, yoga is one of those regimes that works for people of most ages and abilities. There are even instructors who have developed postures that work for people with pretty severe medical issues, so even if you have some challenges, you might be able to figure out a way to make yoga work for you. And I just love how stretched and toned I feel after a good yoga practice.

Namaste!

Maris

Getting Stronger at Any Age

13 January | 2016

Call me crazy, but I recently took up a fabulously fun new exercise regime—master swimming! It’s kind of like swim team for grown-ups. So when Becca of Free Notion invited bloggers to share a little about their fitness story, I was all in. Her theme, Strong is the New Skinny, sums it all up very nicely, doesn’t it?

Something I noticed right away during my swim workouts is I needed more muscle strength in order to swim faster and further. And something you may have noticed is I am not in my twenties any more. At least my physical body is not 20-something; not as sure about my mind. 😉

Back in the day when I was in my twenties and thirties, I was a pretty serious runner. It was during this phase that I learned how critical it is to build muscle mass and strength to power aerobic activity. Four children, several jobs, 2 household moves, semi-retirement, and 1 (soon to be 2!) grandchildren later, exercising in most forms had taken a back seat to life. Oh I kept up for a while, but over the past 5+ years my discipline has waned. Significantly.

Last fall I decided I was tired of not feeling strong and energetic. I do not have any serious medical issues, and according to my doctor I am at a good BMI for my age. But I was really unhappy about feeling stiff, and frankly, weak. I wanted to reverse that trend! Because I now have a bit of osteoarthritis, I need an exercise routine that is gentle on my joints. I have always loved swimming, so that seemed like the place to start. I started just by swimming laps on my own, which has to be about the most boring exercise routine on the planet. But I kept it up until I could consistently swim at least 1 mile during my workout. Then I figured I could see if the master swimming program was a good fit for my interests and abilities.

Hahahaha. OMG. You should been there. My first workout with the masters was a riot. More about that in a later post, but suffice it to say I wasn’t exactly a rock star. Almost immediately I realized some serious strength training would improve my swimming faster than anything else.Soooo, about a month back I added strength-training to my routine too, and bam! More power in the pool. Michael Phelps doesn’t have to worry about his record, but it is fun to see progress, however small.

Any new regime is an opportunity for sewing new clothes, right? I am quite fond of this new workout top, Jalie 2444. I used two different colors of a wicking athletic fabric from Marcy Tilton, and love it as a top. It is sooooo soft and comfortable. I used a super stretchy 3-thread overlock stitch on my serger, with wooly nylon in the looper, and that stitch is very comfy against my skin. I have to confess tho, I am a little less enthusiastic about the pants. The softness that is so comfy and appealing in a top doesn’t work quite as well in pants, so this sew may become a donation.

Yep, this is how I really look when I’m pumping iron! Lots of faces and groaning. 🙂

I’m excited to see what changes 2016 will bring me in terms of fitness and health. How about you? Any new plans or resolutions for 2016? <Insert standard warning to talk to your doctor before beginning an exercise routine, and do not take any advice from me. I am just sharing a bit of my exercise story>

Happy sewing! (and exercising!)

Maris

Psssst! Do head over to Free Notion and check out the other blog tour stops this week as well. And I’ll tell you more about the swimming thing later in the week.

Sewing resolutions are….

10 January | 2016

…well, they are not for everyone.

I have tried them in the past. I have written lists of them. I have even reviewed them. Once, possibly twice throughout the year.

Why have I given up writing sewing resolutions?

Because even though teaching sewing is currently my profession, sewing is not work for me. Sewing is my joy. Sewing is my creative energy. It is how I express my love for my friends and family members. A custom-made shirt. A just-right twirly skirt. A law-office-appropriate knit dress.

So. I am in awe of all you spreadsheet-updating, image-Pinning, regular-reliable-documenting sewists. I do not have any resolutions for 2016. OK, maybe one. It would be great if I hemmed the living room curtains. They have been hanging for about five years. That seems long enough to settle the hem, right? 😉

Happy sewing!

Maris

Tutorial: Invisible Zipper

23 November | 2015

If you have never tried installing an invisible zipper in a garment, you might be just a wee bit intimidated.

But honestly, I think they are easier to put in than regular zippers, and they definitely elevate the “ready to wear” (RTW) look of your garments.

Invisible zips are best for garments made of light to medium-weight fabric, and should be placed into a garment seam. Nothing exposed for these babies. 😉 Because the “teeth” on invisible zips roll to the under side of your garment, once installed they really are invisible except for the small zipper pull. The zipper teeth are also a bit smaller than those on a “regular” polyester coil or metal zipper, so invisible zips are not commonly used in heavy weight fabrics or in situations that require constant opening and closing. Be sure to buy a zipper that is longer than your opening. You will not be able to stitch beyond the zipper pull, so extra length is extra insurance, and any excess is easy enough to cut off.

I like to put invisible zips into a “flat” or completely open seam, instead of partially sewing up the seam like you would do with a centered, “regular” style zipper. I also think an invisible zipper foot for your specific sewing machine model is definitely worth the investment; truly, it will make the job So.Much.Easier. Although, you rarely have to encourage me to buy specialty machine feet. The “special” engineering that enables them to perfectly perform their function makes these feet worth every penny, IMHO.

So, here are a few tools/supplies that will make the invisible zipper installation job a bit easier. Of course, you will need a sewing machine + basic sewing supplies + an invisible zipper. Duh! 🙂
1. Invisible zipper foot, or (less desirable) a regular zipper foot
2. Fabric marker or chalk marker
3. Interfacing strips

Step 1. Preparing the seam allowance

Finish the edges of your garment in whatever manner you choose. In my sample, I have serged the edges.

Step 2. Stabilizing

Stabilize the stitching line. I keep strips of fusible interfacing handy just for this purpose. I usually cut the strips about ¾ of an inch wide on the straight grain. Make sure to fuse the interfacing over the stitching line for the full length of the zipper. In my sample, the stitching line will be 5/8 of an inch from the fabric edge, so the interfacing completely covers that area of the fabric.

Step 3. Marking

Draw a vertical line on the right side (RS) of your garment that is 1/8 of an inch more than the seam allowance for your garment. In my sample, the seam allowance is 5/8 of an inch, so I drew a line ¾ of an inch from the fabric edge (5/8 + 1/8 = 6/8 = ¾). Do this on both sides of your garment fabric.

This “extra” 1/8 of an inch is to allow the invisible zipper teeth to “unroll” while you are stitching the zipper to the fabric.

Also draw a horizontal line 1/8 or ¼ of an inch + your seam allowance from the top edge of both sides of the garment.

Note: Exactly where you draw this horizontal line depends on how the top edge of your garment is to be finished. If you are adding a waistband, allow only a small amount more than your seam allowance. If you will be facing the top edge and adding a hook and eye closure, add about ¼ of an inch to allow for the “turn of cloth” plus the hook and eye.

Step 4. Pinning

Lay the open (unzipped!) zipper RS down onto the RS of your fabric, aligning the edge of the zipper teeth with the vertical line and the zipper stop with the horizontal line you drew on the fabric. Pin or baste the zipper to the fabric.

Step 5. First side stitching

Starting at the top edge of the zipper (above the zipper stop), stitch the first side with a 2.5 or 3.0 straight stitch length. It doesn’t matter which side you stitch first, but since I started on the left side, I am using the left-most side of the invisible zipper foot.

Stitch down as far as you can, or to the marked “zipper stop) point on your garment. To secure the bottom of the zipper edge, you can backstitch for a few stitches, or shorten your stitch length when you are about ½ inch away from the bottom of the zipper.

Note: You can see that it is impossible to stitch beyond the bottom end of an invisible zipper because of the pull size/placement, so using a “too long” zipper is always better than one that is too short. Just stitch as far as possible, or to your marked zipper stop.

Step 6. Second side stitching

Draw a chalk line across the bottom of the zipper where you ended the first stitching line. This chalk line allows you to stop the stitching on the second side of the zipper in exactly the same place as the first side.

Then just repeat steps 4 and 5 for the second side of the zipper, placing the other side of the zipper on the second side of the fabric. Be sure to stop stitching right on the chalk mark!

Step 7. Garment seam closure

Using a regular zipper foot, stitch the remainder of the garment. seam closed. I find it easier to draw the stitching line on the garment first, since I am using a regular zipper foot and have adjusted the needle position accordingly. Be sure to stop your stitching at the same spot as the bottom edge of your zipper stitching, and either backstitch or reduce your stitch length near the end of the seam to secure the stitching.

Step 8. Press

Press your garment! A good press and shot of steam if appropriate for your fabric makes a world of difference in the finished look. Don’t skip this step! Look how perfectly the bottom edges line up!

A few other options….

If you want a more finished look on the end of your zipper, you can wrap the end of the zipper tape with matching or contrasting fabric. This is an especially good idea if you have cut off some of the zipper length.
Try securing the zipper tape to the seam allowance only, either for part or the entire length of the zipper. This provides additional security, and also keeps the zipper tape from “flapping” in the seam allowance during wearing.
If you do not have an invisible zipper foot for your sewing machine, it is perfectly possible to install an invisible zipper with a standard zipper foot. You may to practice just a bit to get the stitching in the correct place so the tape doesn’t show from the outside and making sure the zipper will still “zip up!”

Do you prefer invisible, or regular zippers? Which do you think are easiest to install?

Happy sewing!
Maris

My New Favorite: Juki T-2010

12 November | 2015

O.M.G. I thought I was too old to fall in love all over again.

But THIS.

It had me at twelve layers of waxed canvas. Yes, I said 12 layers. This baby literally flew across my folded bag strap (did I mention it was 12 layers of waxed canvas??) without a hiccup. Without a skipped stitch. Without any distortion in stitch length. Wowzers!

I know. I NEED another sewing machine like another hole in my head. But just think of the bags I can make! Jeans. Top coats. The possibilities are so tantalizing!

And look at the cool feet that come with it! Walking, universal, rolled hemmer, topstitch, edgestitch, and two darning feet! Bwahahahahahaha! If those 2 feet weighed enough I would have myself 2 new pattern weights. Who in the Sam Hill darns any more? Yeah, I know, they are also used for quilting. And we all know how much of THAT I do!

This machine is kind of a cross-over; a little bit of a home sewing machine and a little bit industrial. It uses regular, home sewing machine needles, but has a beefy motor and speed more similar to a commercial machine. It weighs more than most home machines (38 pounds), but is still portable enough that you can take it into a dealer for servicing. It is a single function rather than a multi-purpose machine, specializing in a perfect straight stitch. Easy to thread, easy to operate, it comes with a large extension table and a knee lift—both features I love. It only took me about 30 seconds to get used to the foot control, which has a thread cutting feature that can be activated with a “heel tap” to the foot pedal. I have to say I haven’t made friends with the needle threader yet, but I imagine with practice I will conquer it. And it is kind of annoying that changing feet requires a screwdriver, but I can deal with it.

This machine is definitely not going to replace my Bernina 710, but it is an amazing addition to my collection. I might even try sewing shirts with it!

Do you own any single-function machines? Commercial machines? This is my first foray into the “industrial” realm, and I am wishing I had jumped in earlier!

Happy sewing!
Maris

Where in the world…?

08 November | 2015

…did Sew Maris go?

Well, Italy for a few weeks in September. And then Amsterdam for a few days. Finally, back to Bellevue by the end of September.

But then…

…it was off to Camp Huston for my annual fall ASG sewing retreat. Nearly didn’t comeback from this relaxing, inspiring, invigorating time with my sewing sisters.

And then there was my overly-crazy Kids (weekend) Sew Camp schedule. And the fall ASG educational event with the uh-mazing Gail Yellen on October 17th and 18th. Heaven!

I know. Excuses, excuses!

I’m back. More soon. I promise!!

Happy sewing!

Maris

Pattern Review: Citronille Mia Tunic

25 September | 2015

I was over-the-moon excited to be included in the Sew, Mama, Sew Citronille pattern challenge, sponsored by Fiddlehead Artisan Supply. I first discovered these charming French patterns for children while traveling in Paris some years ago. Swoon!

Citronille is more well-known for their sweet, classic children’s patterns, but they also have a selection of adult patterns (many based on the same design lines as the children’s patterns). I made the Mia Top, a classic-looking asymmetrical tunic. I used some grey and white ikat Japanese cotton from my stash, because, well, evidently I can only sew black for myself. 😉

First off, a few things you should know.First, Citronille patterns are written in French. If you are not fluent (and I am not), Fiddlehead has done you a favor and provided a glossary of terms plus a translation of the pattern instructions so you can figure how to put these garments together. Thank you, Fiddlehead! Second, the instructions are rather minimalist. If you have ever sewn with Style Arc patterns, the “depth” of instructional information is similar for Citronille. If you are an absolute beginner, you might have a little trouble. The patterns themselves are simple with only a few pattern pieces, but the finishing details assume you have some sewing knowledge. Finally, there are no fitting alterations/adjustment lines included. No biggie for me, and you can (should?) get this information from fitting books anyway.

Now, let’s talk about the Mia top specifically. I was very attracted to this style because I love anything asymmetrical. It is just an edgier, more interesting design line to my eye.

Here are a few things I noticed when I started working with the pattern.

I was very surprised to see the front dart was the same size for all pattern sizes. Generally, the larger the garment size the larger the dart size, so that set off a little alarm bell in my head. I decided to just go ahead and try it as drafted.
The grainlines were marked on each pattern piece, but notching was almost non-existent. OK, I know where things are supposed to line up, so I could deal with that.
The pattern included a front, back, sleeve, front facing, and collar pattern piece, but no back facing. OK, no biggie, I drafted a back facing pattern in about 2 minutes.

The only pattern adjustments I made to the Mia top were for a forward shoulder and petite-ing above the waist, because I need those 2 adjustments on every pattern. Every.Single.One. Ready to cut out!

Since there are only 5 (+ 1 back neck facing) pattern pieces, the cutting was fast and easy. I stitched the darts, then the shoulder seam, and then set in the sleeves. The instructions call for running an easing stitch first to help set the sleeve, but the Mia sleeve fits correctly into the armhole so I did not find this necessary. If this “no easing” technique is new to you, be sure to read over my How to Set in a Sleeve Without An Easing Stitch tutorial.

When I went to stitch the side seams and sleeve seam (in one continuous seam), I discovered a pretty major drafting flaw. The front and back sides do not match up. By a lot; specifically 3/4 of an inch. “Walking” the seamlines to ensure the lengths match is Pattern Drafting 101, so I consider this to be a major AND super-easy-to-correct pattern flaw that Citronille absolutely should correct. At this point, all I could do to my top was shorten the back to match the front. Depending on your preferred tunic length, you may prefer to extend the front and front facing pattern pieces to match the back length. At any rate, be aware of this pattern flaw!

The rest of the pattern went together fine. I did not follow the pattern instructions regarding the collar + facing technique, because I detest the no-back-neck-facing-kludgey-collar-system. Truly. I hate it and never do the sew-one-collar-layer-then-stuff-the-seam-allowance-inside-and-hand-sew-the-opening-closed method. Far cleaner and easier to sew by including a back neck facing. Two minutes of pattern drafting solves this issue, and is well worth it IMHO.

The rest of the construction was easy. All in all, this top sewed up very quickly.

Now let’s talk about fit and design. Despite my concern over the dart drafting, the Mia Top fit me very nicely, especially though the shoulders and armhole. There is good arm movement in this shirt, which is important in a woven garment! I think it fits well thru the bustline, but just barely. So if you are bigger than a C cup, beware. The fit through the waist and hip area was also just fine.

As for design, on my body I think it is just OK. It is a little too shapeless to be really flattering for me. Rolling the sleeves up helps, I think. Note that IMHO the overlap on the fronts is very odd; the extension is completely across the entire shirt front. This means that you are attempting to tie/button/snap the garment together in your armpit area. And just for the record, that is darn hard to do. The Mia Top would be much more wearable from my standpoint if it wasn’t so irritating to get into/close up properly, and reducing the front overlap would easily solve this issue.

Despite the fact I think this top is a little “meh” on me, I definitely plan to sew some of the Citronille children’s designs. Maybe it was my fabric choice, or maybe they do not design for my body type. At any rate, I definitely plan to sew up some of their children’s patterns because I love, love, love many of their designs and my darling granddaughter needs a few of them in her wardrobe.

Be sure to check out the beautiful things sewn up by the other bloggers in this challenge, who have all been posting this week—you might just fall in love with Citronille designs, too. And don’t forget to enter to win a free Citronille pattern at Sew, Mama, Sew next week!

Michelle Morris of That Black Chic
Sherri Sylvester of thread riding hood
Tenille Brien of Tenille’s Thread
Ari Green of Max California
Marisa of thirtynine
Sara Johansen of the Sara project
Natalie Strand of Vegetablog
Diane Reafsnyder of Gator Bunny
Jessica Wright of Willow & Stitch
Sara Homer of Now Try This
Kelly Donovan of Craftree

“Sew Mama Sew are offering a chance to win a Citronille pattern of your choice, pay them a visit!”

Happy sewing!

Maris

Pattern Review: Davina Dress

01 September | 2015

It’s no secret; I love Itch to Stitch patterns!

I was lucky enough to help test her latest design, the Davina dress. Pretty, feminine, classic, great fit—she pretty much hit all my buttons.

I sewed up my version in an ITY knit from my stash. This pattern requires a knit with a high stretch factor (at least 75%), and great recovery. This pattern is extremely fitted thru the bodice, so if you decide to use a fabric with a lower stretch factor you really should go up a size.

Wow. Someone didn’t even hem her Davina dress. I do normally hem my knit dresses, even though it is not required since there is no raveling. But this dress was barely long enough for my taste, despite adding 3 inches to the skirt length, so I opted to be daring. My mother is seriously rolling over in her grave. 😉

Such a great, twirly, half-circle skirt. Love, love, love!

There are loads of sleeve length options, and when I originally sewed this I tried out the medium short sleeve. Notice my version as pictured has no sleeves—for 2 reasons.

One, sleeveless knit dresses are more practical for me, since I find them more comfortable with a cardi over a bare arm rather than wrestling the sweater on top of sleeves.

Two, the one thing I wasn’t crazy about on this pattern was the armhole fit when the sleeve was inserted. Maybe you can see that the armhole does not sit directly over the shoulder line. Super pretty design line for a sleeveless dress, but not so great IMHO with a sleeve. I do have fairly broad shoulders, so maybe it is my personal fitting issue, but if you make the Davina Dress (and I hope you do!), this is an area to pay attention to.

I love this dress so much I plan on making another one very soon, in a solid jersey knit. The pretty gathers on the front bodice don’t show up well in my print version, and that + the circle skirt are my two favorite features of this pattern.

Right now you can buy the Davina Dress for 20% off, + also enter the raffle on Kennis’ web site to win a free copy of this pattern. If you are in the market for a fresh, feminine new dress pattern (duh, who isn’t??), then I hope you give the Davina a try. I’m pretty sure you’ll love it, too!

Happy sewing!

Maris