Style Arc Ziggi SewAlong: Cutting it all out

Are you excited to get started on your Ziggi jacket? I am amped like I’ve had 6 double shots of espresso, and hopefully my stitching will not be affected by my crazed condition.ย  Let’s do this, people!

Style Arc's Ziggi jacket pattern

So by now hopefully you should have all your supplies + your pattern. Did you order your zippers from ZipperStop.com? I did – some badass antique nickel babies. And I paid to have them cut to the exact length I want. I decided against using leather for my Ziggi, except for the optional contrast pieces. I live in rain country people, and already have a leather jacket I don’t wear as much as I would like. Here are my supplies:

Fabric an dzipper sfor Ziggi jacket

I bought the amoeba-flocked denim at Billie’s Designer Fabrics in Chehalis last fall. Love.This.Fabric. The crazy red print lining is from District Fabrics in Fremont. Thanks Ashley, it is perfect! The custom-length, badass antique nickel zips are from ZipperStop. Kickin’ fast shipping, just in case you need it. ๐Ÿ˜‰ The leather pants have never been worn by me. I bought them from a consignment store for almost nothing because the leather was in great shape. I thought they would make great welts in bound buttonholes, but evidently they want to be something a little racier. Like accents on a Ziggi!

Now, some of you lovelies have been concerned about making a muslin first. Two words: YOUR CALL. If you have never sewn a Style Arc pattern and don’t know how they fit your body, it wouldn’t be a bad idea. If you want to make a muslin, skip to the Muslin Making section for more deets. If you are good to go, start your engines!

Cutting out the Ziggi jacket

So I am going to use my fabric choices as examples. Remember, I am making a basically denim jacket with leather shoulder yoke and sleeve accents. So here is my cutting list:

Pattern pieces required for my main jacket fabric (black-flocked denim)

Denim with Ziggi pattern pieces

1 (2x), 2(2x), 3(2x) 4(2x), 5(2x), 6(2x), 7(1x), 8(2x), 9(2x), 10(1x), 11(4x), 12(2x), 13(2x), 14(2x)

Pattern pieces for accents (black leather)

Black leather pants for Ziggi jacket accents

8(2x),ย 13(2x)

Pattern pieces for lining (red poly silk)

Ziggi jacket lining with paper patterns

15(2x), 16(2x), 17(2x), 18(2x), 19(2x), 20(1x), 21(2x), 22(2x) 23(4x)

Pattern pieces for interfacing

2(2x), 9(2x)

Here is the bad news – at least for my pattern. The pattern numbers are not listed correctly on the paper pattern pieces. Bummer. But it only took me about 3 1/2 minutes to go thru the pattern piece list + diagram and write the correct pattern piece number on my pattern pieces. I will write Style Arc and tell them about this, but it is hardly a showstopper. Actually, not even a blip on my sewing radar.

You’re all smart, so I know you pre-washed your fabric if you are using something like denim or twill. If you are using leather, remember NO IRONING. What a relief, right? And did I mention how happy I am that I only have to fuse my interfacing to the collar and front facing? Fusing is among my least favorite sewing tasks, so the fewer the better as far as I am concerned.

Now, about my leather. I plan to quilt my pieces so I am going to get all my stitching done before I do the final cutting. I bet you know all about that shrinking/quilting thing, so ‘nuf said.

Making a muslin

If you decide to make a muslin before cutting into your fabric, you should be cutting out everything EXCEPT the pocket facings, the hem facing, the front facing, and all of the lining pieces. Be sure to use a fabric that is a comparable weight to the final fabric you intend to use. WATCH THOSE SEAM ALLOWANCES when you baste it together (yes, I did say BASTE). Style Arc uses 3/8″ SA in most places, and 1/4″ on collars. You will LOVE sewing with these seam allowances because the pattern fits together perfectly, and there is NO trimming. Because the pattern piece has the seam allowance required to do the job. No more. No less.

Stitch around the outside edges of all hems and outer edges and cut off the SA so you can tell exactly where things will end. Draw horizontal and vertical balance lines on the muslin with a sharpie to help you understand where any fitting issues are occurring. We don’t really have time to go thru a complete fitting in this sew along, since each of you will have different issues. If you are looking for a good, visual resource I really like Sarah Veblen’s The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.

Whew! That is enough for one day!! Are you excited yet? ๐Ÿ™‚

Happy sewing!

Maris

 

 

 

 

17 Responses to Style Arc Ziggi SewAlong: Cutting it all out

  1. Jennifer N says:

    I do not have the time to take on this project as I have committed to a few others for March but I will be following along. I am sewing a classic Trench coat and maybe some of it will help me too. I love the Style Arc patterns and I am sure this one will be fabulous like the others.

  2. Ruth says:

    Thanks Maris for the welcome! I shall be sewing ‘virtually’ along with you until my stuff arrives. This is certainly very good prep though and a lot of pattern pieces by the looks of it! Nothing on the bias?

  3. Annette says:

    Maris, I’ll be a lurker and/or cheerleader. I’m bookmarking so I can come back when I have fewer obligations and the time to completely devote to this jacket.

  4. waiting on my pattern still will follow along until it shows can’t wait to do
    this jacket is awesome.

  5. […] Sew Maris and Stacy Sewsย are hosting a sew-a-long for it so I thought what better time to jump into to it than when I can virtually cry on some friends shoulders if things go terribly wrong. […]

  6. Laura says:

    Which zippers should I get for this, heavy or extra heavy? I got my fabric yesterday, so I need to order the zips now. (why is there no option to get follow up comments emailed to me?)

    • SewMaris says:

      Hi Laura,
      It is up to you how heavy you want your zips to be. I ordered a #5 YKK zip for the front zip, and just regular #3 for the pockets and sleeves. If I had an option to order #5 closed end zips in antique brass I would have – but I could only get #3 (regular weight) in the finish I wanted. So I decided that the sleeve and pocket zips would not get as much use, and I cared more about the finish than the “heaviness” of the zipper. Hopefully that makes sense!

  7. Laura says:

    I made a muslin, and the armscye is really low. If I pull the jacket up so it sits up where it should under my arm, it also fits better in the bust and right below the bust. I know MaLora has the same problem with the armscye. I plan to shorten the whole thing above the bust to fix this, but I’m not sure how it will work with all the different pieces across that area. Do you have any tips for us?

  8. Justine says:

    Hi Maris, I’m following along here late. I just cut out my felt muslin and realized the center back piece has a center seam but it doesn’t show in the photo. What did you do? Thanks.

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