Are you excited to get started on your Ziggi jacket? I am amped like I’ve had 6 double shots of espresso, and hopefully my stitching will not be affected by my crazed condition. Let’s do this, people!
So by now hopefully you should have all your supplies + your pattern. Did you order your zippers from ZipperStop.com? I did – some badass antique nickel babies. And I paid to have them cut to the exact length I want. I decided against using leather for my Ziggi, except for the optional contrast pieces. I live in rain country people, and already have a leather jacket I don’t wear as much as I would like. Here are my supplies:
I bought the amoeba-flocked denim at Billie’s Designer Fabrics in Chehalis last fall. Love.This.Fabric. The crazy red print lining is from District Fabrics in Fremont. Thanks Ashley, it is perfect! The custom-length, badass antique nickel zips are from ZipperStop. Kickin’ fast shipping, just in case you need it. 😉 The leather pants have never been worn by me. I bought them from a consignment store for almost nothing because the leather was in great shape. I thought they would make great welts in bound buttonholes, but evidently they want to be something a little racier. Like accents on a Ziggi!
Now, some of you lovelies have been concerned about making a muslin first. Two words: YOUR CALL. If you have never sewn a Style Arc pattern and don’t know how they fit your body, it wouldn’t be a bad idea. If you want to make a muslin, skip to the Muslin Making section for more deets. If you are good to go, start your engines!
Cutting out the Ziggi jacket
So I am going to use my fabric choices as examples. Remember, I am making a basically denim jacket with leather shoulder yoke and sleeve accents. So here is my cutting list:
Pattern pieces required for my main jacket fabric (black-flocked denim)
1 (2x), 2(2x), 3(2x) 4(2x), 5(2x), 6(2x), 7(1x), 8(2x), 9(2x), 10(1x), 11(4x), 12(2x), 13(2x), 14(2x)
Pattern pieces for accents (black leather)
Pattern pieces for lining (red poly silk)
15(2x), 16(2x), 17(2x), 18(2x), 19(2x), 20(1x), 21(2x), 22(2x) 23(4x)
Pattern pieces for interfacing
Here is the bad news – at least for my pattern. The pattern numbers are not listed correctly on the paper pattern pieces. Bummer. But it only took me about 3 1/2 minutes to go thru the pattern piece list + diagram and write the correct pattern piece number on my pattern pieces. I will write Style Arc and tell them about this, but it is hardly a showstopper. Actually, not even a blip on my sewing radar.
You’re all smart, so I know you pre-washed your fabric if you are using something like denim or twill. If you are using leather, remember NO IRONING. What a relief, right? And did I mention how happy I am that I only have to fuse my interfacing to the collar and front facing? Fusing is among my least favorite sewing tasks, so the fewer the better as far as I am concerned.
Now, about my leather. I plan to quilt my pieces so I am going to get all my stitching done before I do the final cutting. I bet you know all about that shrinking/quilting thing, so ‘nuf said.
Making a muslin
If you decide to make a muslin before cutting into your fabric, you should be cutting out everything EXCEPT the pocket facings, the hem facing, the front facing, and all of the lining pieces. Be sure to use a fabric that is a comparable weight to the final fabric you intend to use. WATCH THOSE SEAM ALLOWANCES when you baste it together (yes, I did say BASTE). Style Arc uses 3/8″ SA in most places, and 1/4″ on collars. You will LOVE sewing with these seam allowances because the pattern fits together perfectly, and there is NO trimming. Because the pattern piece has the seam allowance required to do the job. No more. No less.
Stitch around the outside edges of all hems and outer edges and cut off the SA so you can tell exactly where things will end. Draw horizontal and vertical balance lines on the muslin with a sharpie to help you understand where any fitting issues are occurring. We don’t really have time to go thru a complete fitting in this sew along, since each of you will have different issues. If you are looking for a good, visual resource I really like Sarah Veblen’s The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.
Whew! That is enough for one day!! Are you excited yet? 🙂