…can I stitch a sleeve into the armscye incorrectly? At least 3! I wondered whether taking several (OK, 6) shirts for my husband to last weekend’s sewing retreat was a good idea, and I think maybe the answer is NO! Men’s tailored dress shirts require precision, accuracy, and a fair degree of concentration. All thingsÂ that are aÂ little harder to accomplish in a room of 20+ sewists. Some of them who are evenÂ loud and giggly!Â Not that there is any wine consumption at such events…. 🙂
Mistake number 1. I stitched the sleeve into the armscye inside out. That beautiful sleeve placket I made just would not have been visible against my husband’s arm, so I ripped it out. And yes, I had stitched bothÂ seams of the “felled” seam finish. At 22 stitches to the inch. Â And yes, it did require very slow and careful ripping to not tear the shirt fabric.
Lovely sleeve placket detail:
Mistake number 2. I flipped the sleeve I had just ripped out and set it into the same armscye. Uh huh. That’s right.Â This timeÂ I sewed the right sleeve into the left armscye. Â Uh huh. Once again I stitched both seams of the “felled” seam finish. More. slow. careful. ripping.
Mistake number 3. IÂ pinned the sleeve I had just ripped outÂ for the second timeÂ into the correct armscye. My shirt pattern has a 7/8 inch seam allowance on the sleeve cap to allow for the “foldover” to encase the armscye 3/8 inch Â seam allowance on the front, back and yoke patterns. So my third (and thankfully FINAL) error was to reverse the seam allowance. I set the sleeve at 3/8″ and the body at 7/8″. This time I discovered my error after stitching just the first seam.
Sometimes, you just have to step away from the garment. And drinking a glass of wine can help the self-recrimination and destructive impulses too.Â 🙂 Soooo, I didn’t get nearly as much done on my ridiculously large pile of shirts as I had hoped. Whatever. I laughed with my sewing sisters. I made some new friends. I helped a few of my sisters with fitting and construction issues. It was a fantastic weekend. There will be shirt progress updates later.