Since I really don’t know when to quit, I am also trying to get a “matching” blouse done to go with my Chanel jacket. For Saturday night. Call me stooo-pid. Whatever, I think I might just be able to pull it off. If not, I’m going give it one helluva good effort!
I am using an OOP Anna Sui Vogue pattern, number 2912 I have had in my pattern collection for a while, and last week while shopping at Nancy’s Sewing Basket I managed to score some more of the same silk charmeuse lining fabric I used to line my Chanel jacket. See where this is going? 🙂 I am making the sleeveless version – View A of this pattern.
I checked the reviews for V2912 on Patternreview.com, and they were not exactly encouraging. But I love a challenge, so what the heck. Two main issues were noted: 1) blouse length, and 2) getting the “outside” facing to lie smoothly on slippery silk or poly charmeuse-esque fabric. If you look closely at the photo of View A on the pattern envelope, the blouse barely skims the top of the model’s jeans. OK if you are 19 and have never had children, but less than ideal for my “mature hourglass” figure type. 🙂 Easy fix – add a few inches to the pattern and problem number 1 is solved. For my figure, I always “petite” my blouse or dress patterns above the waist since I am slightly short-waisted, add a high hip adjustment below the waist, and for this pattern I added (3 inches) also below the waist. Note I did not use the “lengthen/shorten line marked on the pattern piece shown below, since I did not want to fool around adjusting the back dart. (The pattern-makers are not gods, you know, and sometimes they are actually WRONG!)
As for the facing issue, problem #2: HAND SEWING, people! Just think about it for a minute. How likely are you to be able to machine topstitch around the outside of a circular facing (think bias!) on silk charmeuse that is interfaced with silk organza and not get some ripples? Snort! Repeat snort! I plan on machine sewing a guide line around the outside edge of the facing just shy of 5/8 of an inch, changing stitch direction frequently, and then handsewing the facing edge to the blouse. Problem solved (in theory, anyway!)
I had whipped up a quick muslin last night, and the only potential area that might need some further adjusting is the back dart placement. I am going to get some help with this today from a sewing buddy. My blouse is all cut out, and most of the markings are done. I used my super-cool Kai serrated scissors designed for slippery fabrics, pinned the pattern pieces to the fabric, and rocked it. Slippery fabrics and pattern weights do not play well together, IMHO. So even tho I prefer the speed of weights, this was not the time to use them.
Now it is time to get back to my sewing machine and see if I can actually accomplish making this blouse and getting the pockets on the jacket. Gulp! Happy sewing!