Sew Maris

evergreen

Kids know how to have fun

Fabric + sewing machines + kids = let the good times roll.

Ironing tubes for bag straps

There is really little that ismore fun that a studio full of kids working on a sewing project. The energy and comraderie is just amazing, and being around these young girls definitely makes you feel all is right with the world. They like to help each other. They want to share their knowledge.

Happy kids sewing

They are much more interested in the process than the outcome. They work hard, but don’t obsess over minor problems.

Stitching at Sew Camp

Did I mention they also giggle? A lot!

Turning tubes for bag straps

Do yourself a big favor, and pass along one of your gifts to a group of kids. You will gain much more in the process than they will. I guarantee it!

Happy sewing!

Maris Olsen

Tutorial: How to Create Perfect Edgestitching

Some things are just slower than molasses in February to accomplish.

Like learning to edit videos, for example. You would think that someone who is very technically astute would be able to pick up learning a new software program rather quickly, but it sure did not happen that way around here.

But enough griping, and on to the video! I hope you learn a thing or two about how to create beautiful edgestitching on your garments, and I would LOVE to hear from you soon. About anything at all.



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Happy sewing!

Maris Olsen

Creativity + sewing skills + grand-daughters = adorable

 

Blue Dress with lace

It is awesome to watch my beginning students really get bit by the sewing bug.  Once they get comfortable operating a big, scary piece of machinery (aka a “sewing machine”), there is no stopping them.

One of my new students this fall has 3 grand-daughters, and she had a vision of what she wanted to make for the girls. I am pretty sure those girls are going to have a big surprise this Christmas-Grandma has been ver-r-r-y busy!

You can’t see from this view but this black polka-dot skirt has a rhinestone, sparkly exposed zipper on the back. And what about the rickrack trim? It really makes the skirt colors pop, doesn’t it?

Polka Dot skirt with rick rack

I love the farm scenes on this print, and the brown lace edging is just right.

White print skirt with trims

This one is so cheerful and bright – no one could have a bad day wearing this creation.

Yellow print skirt with blue rick rack

Two strawberry print skirts for sisters – just different enough and both adorable.

Strawberry print with red band and rick rack

 

Strawberry print skirt with rick rack

I love this pink print – so modern and fresh!

Pink skirt with rick rack

I love watching what happens when someone who already has a creative vision gains a few simple skills at a sewing machine – magic! How about you? What is going to be your inspiration this week? I’d love to hear about it!

Happy sewing,

Maris Olsen

 

10 Lies Sewists Like to Tell Their Husbands about Sewing Retreats

 

  1. Drinking while sewing is not allowed.
  2. There is no wifi at camp.
  3. Fabric shopping is not possible – after all – retreat is at a summer camp in the mountains.
  4. Lights are required to be out at 10:00 p.m. every night.
  5. I don’t want to be away from you for the weekend, but since I am a board member I am required to go on retreat.
  6. No snacking between meals allowed, so it will be easy to stay on my diet.
  7. My cell phone has no service at the camp.
  8. There is a prize for the person who sews up the most fabric from their stash over the weekend.
  9. I will finish your <shirts> <pants> <jacket><underwear> before starting any projects of my own.
  10. Of course I’ll be home in plenty of time to make a delicious, home-cooked meal Sunday night.

Ready for the real story? Three days without cooking, cleaning, or household chores, and nothing but non-stop sewing time with all of your best girl friends – that’s what a sewing retreat is all about!

In case it has been more than 15 minutes since your last mouthful – the treat table!

Never enough treats

Yes, ANOTHER red jacket for Evelyn!

Evelyn

I hate Fran. Every stinkin’ thing she makes is beyond adorable. So cute I won’t even show you the darling baby bib she was making here.

Fran

Why is Wendy wearing Gaylen’s dress? Oh! Because it matches her socks!

Wendy modeling Gaylen's dress

Susy is so cheerful about making those charity tote bags. Oh, maybe it was really because she got to sit next to me all weekend. 😉

Susy is happy at sewcamp

Molly likes to concentrate while serging.

Molly concentrating while Paula and Saralynsew

How many pairs of scrubs did you make, Judy? Complete with embroidery?

Judy "Scrubs"

My gorgeous, elegant, talented roomie, Virginia!

Virginia

It’s not that bad, Saralyn. Kate is almost done hammering.

KateandSaralyn

Python pajama top for a 90-something mom, modeled by a much younger Donna. Cool!

Donna modelingPJ top

That’s it until spring, when we tell more lies about the discipline and productivity event known as a Greater Seattle ASG retreat!

Happy sewing!

Maris Olsen

 

Tutorial: Seam finishing (part 1)

Don’t you just love the clarity in today’s pattern instructions? One of my favorite instructional sentences found in many patterns today is “Finish seam.” Wow. How do you begin to follow THAT? What does “finish”mean? Are there different kinds of seam finishes? When do you choose one over another? What is the purpose of a seam finish? Do you ALWAYS finish seams? This kind of useless information makes my blood boil. A beginning sewist reads this sentence and just wants to cry.

So let’s break this down. For starters, the purpose of “finishing” a seam is to prevent raveling and (possibly) to provide additional stability. The type of seam finish you want depends on (minimally) these factors:

  1. fabric fiber content
  2. fabric raveling characteristics
  3. planned method of laundering the finished garment
  4. planned pressing direction of the seam (for example, open, or to one side)

In addition, some seam finishes require special tools, such as pinking shears. You might WANT to pink your seams, but if you don’t own pinking shears or a rotary cutter with a wavy blade there is no point in choosing this finish method. And despite the pattern instructions, yes, there are times when no seam finish is necessary. An example is a lined coat. Since the lining completely covers and protects the jacket seams from wear or laundering abrasion, there is no requirement to finish those seams. You may choose to, but chances are pretty good it is not necessary.

Now that we know why we should even bother to finish our seams, let’s examine three seam finish options in more detail. This is not the comprehensive list of all seam finishes, but includes a few basic ones. More to come in future tutorials! Also, please note the instructions below all assume that you have already stitched the seam. Duh. 😉

1. Pinking

  1. Suitable fabrics: firmly woven cottons, linens, polyesters, blends
  2. Unsuitable fabrics: extremely ravelly fabrics of any fiber composition
  3. Suitable seams: any seam that is designed to be pressed OPEN
  4. Special tools: Pinking shears or fluted blade for a rotary cutter
  5. Preferred seam allowance: 5/8″ or greater
  6. Advantages: does not add any bulk to the SA, fast, easy
  7. Disadvantages: requires a special tool

Pinking procedure

Using pinking shears or rotary cutter, trim a minimal amount of fabric from the raw edge. Press the seam open. Easy peasy!!

Pinking tools:

Pinking tools

Pinked seam allowance:

Pinked edge seam finish

 

2. Narrow “hemming” seam allowances

  1. Suitable fabrics: firmly woven cottons, linens, polyesters, blends
  2. Unsuitable fabrics: extremely ravelly fabrics of any fiber composition
  3. Suitable seams: any seam that is designed to be pressed OPEN, and is straight (or mostly straight)
  4. Special tools: None
  5. Preferred seam allowance: 5/8″ or greater
  6. Advantages: no special tools, only requires a straight stitch
  7. Disadvantages: a little time-consuming (three stitchings per seam)

Narrow “hemming” seam allowances procedure

Using a normal length straight stitch (usually 2.5 or 10-12 stitches per inch), turn the right side edge of one side of the seam allowance to the wrong side 1/8 inch or so, and stitch. Repeat for the other side of the seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open. Easy peasy!!

Narrow hemmed seam allowance – front side of seam allowance view

Turned-under-edge seam finish (back)

Narrow hemmed seam allowance – underside of seam allowance view:

Turned-under-edge seam finish (back)

 

3. Overcasting/Zig-zagging (is that a word? lol) seam allowances

  1. Suitable fabrics: firmly woven or semi-firmly cottons, linens, polyesters, wools, blends
  2. Unsuitable fabrics: sheer or extremely lightweight fabrics
  3. Suitable seams: any seam that is designed to be pressed open or to one side
  4. Special tools: Overcast foot (if overcasting)
  5. Preferred seam allowance: 5/8″ or greater
  6. Advantages: works well for ravelly fabrics, does not require special tools (possibly exception an overcast foot)
  7. Disadvantages: can create a little “ridge” of fabric under the zig-zag stitch that adds bulk and can show thru to the right side after pressing; overcasting requires a special foot for your sewing machine

Overcast/Zig-zag seam allowances procedure

If zig-zagging, set your machine for a fairly wide stitch (at least 3.5), and a medium length (something between 2-3).  You can zig-zag each seam allowance separately, or if you want to press the SA to one side you can zig-zag the SA together. If you are overcasting, change to the overcast foot, and check your machine manual to set up the overcast stitch. Just like the zig-zag finish, you can apply this to either each SA or both of them together. Press the seam allowance open or to one side.

Overcast (left edge) and zig-zag (right edge) “open” seam allowance finish:

Overcast and zig-zag seam finish

 

Hope this helps de-mystify the term “finish” a little – more to come!

Happy sewing

Maris Olsen

 

 

How (NOT!) to sew pajama pants

PJPantsPatternScan (2)

Pajama pants are one of my go-to projects for beginning sewists because they:

  1. consist of only 1 or 2 pattern pieces
  2. usually can be completed in 1 or 2 lessons
  3. provide stitching practice on a garment that is not generally worn in public, so not matter how awful the stitching is they can still be considered “wearable” 😉

At a recent Kids Sew Camp, I handed the pattern instruction sheet shown above to two students working on their PJs. Since they were the oldest two students, I was encouraging their “independent sewing” mindset by asking them to construct their pants mostly by reading the pattern instructions.

Sheesh. Imagine my surprise when I took a second look. Can you see what is missing? Hint: the pictures are correct, but the written instructions are missing a step.

Happy sewing!

Maris