I think my current interest in interfacing fusing techniques is probably a whole new level of sewing-nerdiness. But just in case you might have a smidge of interest in this too, let me elaborate. 🙂
There are 3 ways I know of to apply fusible interfacing:
- Cut out the fashion fabric, cut out the interfacing, and fuse the two pieces together. Try not to get interfacing glued on your iron or ironing board cover.
- “Block” fuse interfacing to a section of your fabric, and then cut out the pattern pieces requiring interfacing from this stabilized fabric.
- Spot fuse a section of interfacing to your fabric, and then cut out all the pattern pieces requiring interfacing. Complete the final fusing after the cutting is complete. Check out Pam Erny’s tutorial about this method.
I decided I would give the block fusing method a try on a pair of pants I am making for my youngest DD. Here is a rough idea of how it goes, I will try to post a “real” tutorial on this later this week.
Start by “rough cutting” a piece of fabric big enough for all the pattern pieces that require interfacing. The squiggly line is chalk because I needed to allow enough space for another set of the back waistband. It would be so like me to eyeball the amount and come up 1/2 inch too short!
Next I cut some tricot fusible interfacing to fit just a bit inside the fabric edges. I took this over to my ironing board, and smoothed all the wrinkles out so both layers were as smooth as possible. The potential danger with this method is getting the interfacing off grain, and introducing wrinkles/bubbles in the fabric, so be careful. Notice there is tissue sandwiched under the fabric/interfacing, as well as on top. Call it insurance. 🙂 Remember that you need heat (iron), steam (iron),and pressure (you!) to properly fuse interfacing. This is not exactly a cardio workout, but it’s not for sissies either. PRESS your iron down on the fabric/interfacing and hold it in place, steaming the whole time, for 10-12 seconds. Then LIFT and repeat the same process again in a new spot. Do not play reggae music and start dancing! Pay attention to your task or you will have a hot mess when you launder your garment. Bubbles, wrinkles, limp fabric, etc.
Here it is – a nicely fused piece of fabric ready for cutting. It even has an “bonus” scrap of interfacing adhered to the right side of the fabric! Luckily I can cut around this one, but it is really easy to get those pesky bits of interfacing glued somewhere you don’t want them.
To my mind, this method is less “fiddly” than cutting each pattern piece and interfacing piece separately and then fusing individually. It is definitely suggested when you are working with a slippery or very loosely woven fabric, which makes perfect sense to help control the fabric so the pattern pieces can be cut accurately.
I think I just may try this method again on the next set of shirts for my DH with the Pro-woven Shirt Crisp interfacing I bought from Fashion Sewing Supply a while back.
What about you? Have you ever tried stabilizing your fabric using the block fusing method? Tell me how it worked out, I’d love to hear about your experiences!