Grainline Archer Sew-Along: Possible Pattern Adjustments

Today I want to go over a few pattern adjustments you might want to consider before cutting out your Archer. Nothing required, of course, and maybe especially if this is your first Archer you might prefer an “as is” version before you start monkeying around. But me, I like to monkey. ūüėČ

Shorten cuff

The first Archer I made the cuff was too large for my liking. Which meant the sleeve/cuff covered part of my hand rather than ending at the wrist bone. For someone who vastly prefers 3/4 length sleeves to minimize spaghetti-sauce-coated-sleeves this was a no-go. Easy peasy pattern change.

Grainline Archer Sew Along by Sew Maris

1.  Draw 2 lines perpendicular to grainline on the cuff pattern. The lines need to be the distance apart that you want to remove (in my case, 1/2 inch).

Grainline Archer Sew Along by Sew Maris

2.  Cut on one of the lines.

3..  Align the cut edge on top of the second line, being careful to ensure the pattern grainline is still straight.

ArcherShortenCuff-1-3

4. ¬†Glue down, and¬†that’s it!

One piece collar

I covered how to convert a 2-piece collar to a 1-piece-collar in a previous tutorial post, so you can check it out if you are interested. I make almost ALL my shirt collars using this pattern conversion, because I think the finished product is superior. My 2 cents.

Forward shoulder

Let’s not re-invent the wheel here, people. A sewing blogger pal of mine wrote a great tutorial that shows a diagram about adjusting¬†both the front and back pattern pieces, as well as the¬†steps to properly adjust your sleeve. Thanks, KnitNBee!¬†For our purposes on the Archer, I¬†would add to the yoke shoulder seam, and take away from the front shoulder seam (both left and right, of course!)

Lengthen/shorten sleeves or body

I have an older post on my blog about shortening sleeves, and if you have never made this adjustment and need it, have a read. The main thing to keep in mind, as with all pattern adjustments, is grainline. So if you have a cutting mat with a 1 inch grid, it is easy peasy to keep your grainline straight and true.

If you need to lengthen sleeves or the body, instead of folding your pattern you will be cutting it apart on the lengthen/shorten lines and inserting paper. Again, grainline matters. I decided I want to lengthen View B Archer by 2 inches, so I am using that as the example here.

1.  Cut pattern apart on lengthen/shorten line provided.

Grainline Archer Sew Along by Sew Maris

2.  Tape down a piece of paper to one side of cut pattern piece, and extend the grainline.

3.  Align pattern piece with additional paper on grid, or draw a new line on the added paper equal to the amount you want to lengthen (2 inches).

ArcherLengthen-2

4. ¬†Tape the”cut off” pattern piece onto the added paper, aligning grainline.

ArcherLengthen-4

5. Connect the side seam. In this case there is a slight curve so I used my French curve to draw a nice line.

Bam! A longer Archer shirt back.

Hope this helps if you are thinking about any of these adjustments to your own Archer. Next up: we will be cutting out the fabric and applying interfacing. Ugh. Hopefully the interfacing fairies will inhabit my sewing studio before that happens.

Happy sewing!

Maris

 

 

 

 

 

 

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