Let’s get those pockets on our Archers, ladies! I promise, no math involved in this post. 😉
All you need is pattern piece # 19, a 1 1/4″ tagboard template (sort of optional), and your cut-out pocket pieces.
Start by pressing over the top edge of the pocket twice to clean-finish. Easy-peasy. Especially with a tagboard template. (And may I interject a side note here that it is WAY faster, easier, and more accurate to cut little snips to mark your pattern piece notches rather than using a marking tool?)
Naturally, I had to make a little <optional> design change to the pocket. I both prefer the appearance of a slight shape at the bottom of pockets, AND there is less bulk at the bottom corners when you press/stitch the pockets. All I did was fold the pocket in half, make a chalk mark 1/2″ up the side edge, and drew a chalk line to the center to create my very slightly slanted edge pocket bottom. And I did also cut on said chalk line. 😉
I forgot to take a picture of the pocket topstitching. Sorry! I used my edgestitch foot, moved the needle over, and stitched close to the edge from the wrong side. Nothing scary so far about pockets, right?
Use chalk or another fabric marker to draw the 1/2″ SA around the outside pockets edges. I mark the outside (RS) of the fabric because it is easier to see when pressing. I know. You are all gasping in disbelief that I did not create a tagboard template for this job. True confessions. I am not a big fan of pockets-on-my-boobage. I only bother to create templates for things I repeat frequently, and shirt front pockets don’t qualify for me. Your call. Template or draw chalk lines, and press your pocket seam allowances to the wrong side.
My denim fabric ravels like the dickens, so I pinked the raw edges. I think this seam finish also helps prevent any lumpiness when you press the pockets, as well as being super fast and easy. Done and done. Notice how bottom corners of the pocket are slanted to the inside slightly. It’s the magic pocket re-shaping at the bottom that eliminates the bulky corners; the ones that give you pressing/topstitching fits. You’re welcome! 🙂
Next I used my handy little Chakoner yet again to draw the top and side-closest-to-the-placket alignment marks for the pocket. I marked the top line from the shirt front pattern piece, but also made sure the line I drew was perpendicular to the center front.
Now about the line that is parallel to center front. The pattern piece does not mark the exact vertical alignment for every size, so you are going to have to determine where you want the pocket placed. Just do make sure it is perfectly parallel to CF by using a ruler to measure/align before you draw the chalk line.
I also glue-basted my pocket into place with a plain ole’ regular, cheap-y glue stick. Less pins = better topstitching, peeps. To secure the pockets (yes, the ones that I will never actually put anything into, I measured 3/8 inch from the outside edge at the top, and then drew a line to the horizontal topstitching. I started topstitching the pocket in this image a little below the horizontal topstitching on the right side, and then followed the chalk line, then across the top edge, and then down the outside edge(s), across the top edge, down the chalk line, and down the edgestitching on the left side again a little bit. This “overstitching” secures the topstitching, as long as you are exactly on top of the previous stitching.
Repeat for the pocket on the other shirt front, and stand back and admire your awesome work!!