Emily Culottes Sew-along: Welt Pocket Option

We certainly have covered all the basics in this sew-along, and some of those Emily Culottes posted in the FB group are uh-dorable! You can still join in the fun and see what others are cookingstitching up!

Emily Culottes Sew-along by Sew Maris

Have you tried adding welt pockets? Too scared? Really, you can do this!

I have no idea why this pink pair is so wrinkly. I carried them on a hanger down to my daughter’s house for her to take a few snaps, and it looks like I rolled in the grass!

And see the kind of bulgy business at the waistband? Hmmm, that would be because someone decided to try a different lining insertion method. Sometimes who occasionally thinks she is one big smartypants. Note to self: Stick.To.Kennis’.Lining.Technique.

OK, enough self-bashing. On to the welt pockets.

There are really only a couple of things to keep in mind with welt pockets. Accurate seam allowances. Interface well. Clip carefully. There are lots of tutes out there about welt pockets if you want to look at other ways to do things, but let’s go over the steps Kennis uses:

Start by stitching the 2 welts together. See how Kennis graded the pattern piece so the underside is slightly smaller than the interfaced “public” side? Nice drafting, Kennis. 😉

Emily Culottes Sew-along By Sew Maris

Do yourself a favor and trim off the upper points on the diagonal. Makes the turning easier.

Emily Culottes Sew-alongby Sew Maris

Word (2): point turner. See how the “underside” (lower welt) is slightly smaller than the public side (upper welt). I am a nut for excellent drafting on little details like this. Swoon!

Emily Culotted Sew-along by Sew Maris

You can figure out how to baste the welts and press the pocket all by your lonesome. 😉

Emily Culottes Sew-Along by Sew Maris

Now, Kennis has you basting the welt to the pocket bag first, instead of to the garment, like many other instructions call for. I say po-tay-toe, you say po-taw-toe. Either works. My welts are pinned and ready to be basted in place. And after the basting is done and you have checked that it is in the right place, follow her instructions in step 32 to stitch the welt in place. Instead of backstitching, be sure you shorten your stitch length at the beginning and the end of the welt. You’re welcome. 🙂

Emily CulottesSew-Along by Sew Maris

Trim off the welt seam allowance on the diagonal ONLY if the welt is all good and happy.

Emily Culottes Sew-along by Sew Maris

This is the “align to the circles on the skirt” step 34. Welt is in between the pocket bag and the skirt, pointing down toward the skirt hem.

Emily Culottes sew-along by Sew Maris

Instructions 36 – 43? They are all about stitching a little box so you can cut an opening in the skirt and pop the welt in place. This is the part that is often done much earlier in other welt pocket methods. The difference here is instead of a complete rectangle, you angle the stitches a bit on the ends. Really, if you don’t overthink it and just do it I am pretty sure you will be fine. Or, say! What about making a mini sample on a scrap to just try out the technique? David Page Coffin, the king of sample-making-testing, will be so proud if you do this! 😉

Emily Culottes Sew-along by Sew Maris

Check your stitching ends exactly on the welt. Do not stitch beyond the welt or your opening will be too large and there will be gaposis.

Emily Culottes Sew-along by Sew Maris

This is what it looks like from the wrong side of the skirt. Doh! I didn’t stitch exactly on my alignment marking at the inner edge. But I did angle my stitching! I decided to live with it. 😉

Now the rest is easy. Slash in the middle of the sewn rectangle thru the pocket first, and then the skirt. Don’t cut the welt!  Push the pocket thru the opening, and press the welt up and the pocket down.

Emily Culottes Sew-along by Sew Maris

Taaa-daaaaa! The inside view….

Emily Culottes Sew-along by Sew Maris

…and the right side view, prior to hand stitching down the sides of the welts.

Now that wasn’t so bad, was it?

Have you ever tried a welt pocket before? Do you like this method?

Happy sewing!






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