Sew Maris

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The Right Exercise for Any Body

Namaste.

More Strong is the New Skinny—thank you again for this opportunity, Becca DuVal!

I am no fitness expert, but for my money yoga might just be the best all-round exercise programs for people of any age. If not the best, it certainly ranks right up there.

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I was slow to embrace yoga. Remember, running was more my style when I was younger. Frankly, it was hard to me to be “still and quiet” during my practice. I like to make most group experiences social opportunities, so not talking for an over an hour in a room full of people was ummm, challenging?

I think if you are open to new information and experiences, you actually DO get wiser as you get older. Now, yoga is a core part of my workout routine, and if I miss a practice or two, my body starts talking back to me. Complaining, actually. The older you get, the more you need to work on flexibility, balance and strength—all core components of yoga. I never used to have any difficulty with balance, but I am just not as steady on my feet as I was when I was younger. Almost everyone needs to improve their flexibility, and the wonderful stretching and gentle encouragement from instructors to press/push/pull a little more promotes openness in your muscles and joints.

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Oh, geez. My right foot position is not right in this pose. Better work on that. I love that “workouts” are called “practices” in yoga. Definitely reduces the perfectionist pressure. 😉 One thing I would recommend is that you take yoga classes with a good instructor for a while instead of attempting it on your own with a DVD. It is really helpful to have a trained instructor check on your poses and offer advice to correct your alignment. I still do the vast, vast majority of my yoga practice in a class with an instructor. You can talk AFTER class, you know! 🙂

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If you read my strength-training post the other day, I mentioned I have osteoarthritis in my hands, so that means I have to be careful about too many weight-bearing poses on my hands. It definitely bums me out that down dog is mostly out for me, but I alternate with some down puppy and cat-cow poses, and occasionally sneak in a down dog just because it feels so good. I was trying out the same new workout top, Jalie 2444 and pants, and the top is as great for yoga as strength training. Yay for dual-purpose clothing!

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Similar to swimming, yoga is one of those regimes that works for people of most ages and abilities. There are even instructors who have developed postures that work for people with pretty severe medical issues, so even if you have some challenges, you might be able to figure out a way to make yoga work for you. And I just love how stretched and toned I feel after a good yoga practice.

Namaste!

Maris

Getting Stronger at Any Age

Call me crazy, but I recently took up a fabulously fun new exercise regime—master swimming! It’s kind of like swim team for grown-ups. So when Becca of Free Notion invited bloggers to share a little about their fitness story, I was all in. Her theme, Strong is the New Skinny, sums it all up very nicely, doesn’t it?

Something I noticed right away during my swim workouts is I needed more muscle strength in order to swim faster and further. And something you may have noticed is I am not in my twenties any more. At least my physical body is not 20-something; not as sure about my mind. 😉

Back in the day when I was in my twenties and thirties, I was a pretty serious runner. It was during this phase that I learned how critical it is to build muscle mass and strength to power aerobic activity. Four children, several jobs, 2 household moves, semi-retirement, and 1 (soon to be 2!) grandchildren later, exercising in most forms had taken a back seat to life. Oh I kept up for a while, but over the past 5+ years my discipline has waned. Significantly.

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Last fall I decided I was tired of not feeling strong and energetic. I do not have any serious medical issues, and according to my doctor I am at a good BMI for my age. But I was really unhappy about feeling stiff, and frankly, weak. I wanted to reverse that trend! Because I now have a bit of osteoarthritis, I need an exercise routine that is gentle on my joints. I have always loved swimming, so that seemed like the place to start. I started just by swimming laps on my own, which has to be about the most boring exercise routine on the planet. But I kept it up until I could consistently swim at least 1 mile during my workout. Then I figured I could see if the master swimming program was a good fit for my interests and abilities.

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Hahahaha. OMG. You should been there. My first workout with the masters was a riot. More about that in a later post, but suffice it to say I wasn’t exactly a rock star. Almost immediately I realized some serious strength training would improve my swimming faster than anything else.Soooo, about a month back I added strength-training to my routine too, and bam! More power in the pool. Michael Phelps doesn’t have to worry about his record, but it is fun to see progress, however small.

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Any new regime is an opportunity for sewing new clothes, right? I am quite fond of this new workout top, Jalie 2444. I used two different colors of a wicking athletic fabric from Marcy Tilton, and love it as a top. It is sooooo soft and comfortable. I used a super stretchy 3-thread overlock stitch on my serger, with wooly nylon in the looper, and that stitch is very comfy against my skin. I have to confess tho, I am a little less enthusiastic about the pants. The softness that is so comfy and appealing in a top doesn’t work quite as well in pants, so this sew may become a donation.

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Yep, this is how I really look when I’m pumping iron! Lots of faces and groaning. 🙂

I’m excited to see what changes 2016 will bring me in terms of fitness and health. How about you? Any new plans or resolutions for 2016? <Insert standard warning to talk to your doctor before beginning an exercise routine, and do not take any advice from me. I am just sharing a bit of my exercise story>

Happy sewing! (and exercising!)

Maris

Psssst! Do head over to Free Notion and check out the other blog tour stops this week as well. And I’ll tell you more about the swimming thing later in the week.

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Sewing resolutions are….

…well, they are not for everyone.

I have tried them in the past. I have written lists of them. I have even reviewed them. Once, possibly twice throughout the year.

Why have I given up writing sewing resolutions?

Because even though teaching sewing is currently my profession, sewing is not work for me. Sewing is my joy. Sewing is my creative energy. It is how I express my love for my friends and family members. A custom-made shirt. A just-right twirly skirt. A law-office-appropriate knit dress.

So. I am in awe of all you spreadsheet-updating, image-Pinning, regular-reliable-documenting sewists. I do not have any resolutions for 2016. OK, maybe one. It would be great if I hemmed the living room curtains. They have been hanging for about five years. That seems long enough to settle the hem, right? 😉

Happy sewing!

Maris

Tutorial: Invisible Zipper

If you have never tried installing an invisible zipper in a garment, you might be just a wee bit intimidated.

But honestly, I think they are easier to put in than regular zippers, and they definitely elevate the “ready to wear” (RTW) look of your garments.

Invisible zips are best for garments made of light to medium-weight fabric, and should be placed into a garment seam. Nothing exposed for these babies. 😉 Because the “teeth” on invisible zips roll to the under side of your garment, once installed they really are invisible except for the small zipper pull. The zipper teeth are also a bit smaller than those on a “regular” polyester coil or metal zipper, so invisible zips are not commonly used in heavy weight fabrics or in situations that require constant opening and closing. Be sure to buy a zipper that is longer than your opening. You will not be able to stitch beyond the zipper pull, so extra length is extra insurance, and any excess is easy enough to cut off.

I like to put invisible zips into a “flat” or completely open seam, instead of partially sewing up the seam like you would do with a centered, “regular” style zipper. I also think an invisible zipper foot for your specific sewing machine model is definitely worth the investment; truly, it will make the job So.Much.Easier. Although, you rarely have to encourage me to buy specialty machine feet. The “special” engineering that enables them to perfectly perform their function makes these feet worth every penny, IMHO.

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

So, here are a few tools/supplies that will make the invisible zipper installation job a bit easier. Of course, you will need a sewing machine + basic sewing supplies + an invisible zipper. Duh! 🙂
1. Invisible zipper foot, or (less desirable) a regular zipper foot
2. Fabric marker or chalk marker
3. Interfacing strips

Step 1. Preparing the seam allowance

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

Finish the edges of your garment in whatever manner you choose. In my sample, I have serged the edges.

Step 2. Stabilizing

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

Stabilize the stitching line. I keep strips of fusible interfacing handy just for this purpose. I usually cut the strips about ¾ of an inch wide on the straight grain. Make sure to fuse the interfacing over the stitching line for the full length of the zipper. In my sample, the stitching line will be 5/8 of an inch from the fabric edge, so the interfacing completely covers that area of the fabric.

Step 3. Marking

Invisible Zipper Tutorial by Sew Maris

Draw a vertical line on the right side (RS) of your garment that is 1/8 of an inch more than the seam allowance for your garment. In my sample, the seam allowance is 5/8 of an inch, so I drew a line ¾ of an inch from the fabric edge (5/8 + 1/8 = 6/8 = ¾). Do this on both sides of your garment fabric.

This “extra” 1/8 of an inch is to allow the invisible zipper teeth to “unroll” while you are stitching the zipper to the fabric.

Also draw a horizontal line 1/8 or ¼ of an inch + your seam allowance from the top edge of both sides of the  garment.

Note: Exactly where you draw this horizontal line depends on how the top edge of your garment is to be finished. If you are adding a waistband, allow only a small amount more than your seam allowance. If you will be facing the top edge and adding a hook and eye closure, add about ¼ of an inch to allow for the “turn of cloth” plus the hook and eye.

Step 4. Pinning

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Lay the open (unzipped!) zipper RS down onto the RS of your fabric, aligning the edge of the zipper teeth with the vertical line and the zipper stop with the horizontal line you drew on the fabric. Pin or baste the zipper to the fabric.

Step 5. First side stitching

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

Starting at the top edge of the zipper (above the zipper stop), stitch the  first side with a 2.5 or 3.0 straight stitch length. It doesn’t matter which side you stitch first, but since I started on the left side, I am using the left-most side of the invisible zipper foot.

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

Stitch down as far as you can, or to the marked “zipper stop) point on your garment. To secure the bottom of the zipper edge, you can backstitch for a few stitches, or shorten your stitch length when you are about ½ inch away from the bottom of the zipper.

Note: You can see that it is impossible to stitch beyond the bottom end of an invisible zipper because of the pull size/placement, so using a “too long” zipper is always better than one that is too short. Just stitch as far as possible, or to your marked zipper stop.

Step 6. Second side stitching

Invisible Zipper Tutorial by Sew Maris

Draw a chalk line across the bottom of the zipper where you ended the first stitching line. This chalk line allows you to stop the stitching on the second side of the zipper in exactly the same place as the first side.

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

Then just repeat steps 4 and 5 for the second side of the zipper, placing the other side of the zipper on the second side of the fabric. Be sure to stop stitching right on the chalk mark!

Step 7. Garment seam closure

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

Using a regular zipper foot, stitch the remainder of the garment. seam closed. I find it easier to draw the stitching line on the garment first, since I am using a regular zipper foot and have adjusted the needle position accordingly. Be sure to stop your stitching at the same spot as the bottom edge of your zipper stitching, and either backstitch or reduce your stitch length near the end of the seam to secure the stitching.

Step 8. Press

Invisible zipper tutorial by Sew Maris

Press your garment! A good press and shot of steam if appropriate for your fabric makes a world of difference in the finished look. Don’t skip this step! Look how perfectly the bottom edges line up!

A few other options….

  1. If you want a more finished look on the end of your zipper, you can wrap the end of the zipper tape with matching or contrasting fabric. This is an especially good idea if you have cut off some of the zipper length.
  2. Try securing the zipper tape to the seam allowance only, either for part or the entire length of the zipper. This provides additional security, and also keeps the zipper tape from “flapping” in the seam allowance during wearing.
  3. If you do not have an invisible zipper foot for your sewing machine, it is perfectly possible to install an invisible zipper with a standard zipper foot. You may to practice just a bit to get the stitching in the correct place so the tape doesn’t show from the outside and making sure the zipper will still “zip up!”

Do you prefer invisible, or regular zippers? Which do you think are easiest to install?

Happy sewing!
Maris

 

My New Favorite: Juki T-2010

O.M.G. I thought I was too old to fall in love all over again.

Juki T2010 by Sew Maris

But THIS.

It had me at twelve layers of waxed canvas. Yes, I said 12 layers. This baby literally flew across my folded bag strap (did I mention it was 12 layers of waxed canvas??) without a hiccup. Without a skipped stitch. Without any distortion in stitch length. Wowzers!

I know. I NEED another sewing machine like another hole in my head. But just think of the bags I can make! Jeans. Top coats. The possibilities are so tantalizing!

Juki T2010 by Sew Maris

And look at the cool feet that come with it! Walking, universal, rolled hemmer, topstitch, edgestitch, and two darning feet! Bwahahahahahaha! If those 2 feet weighed enough I would have myself 2 new pattern weights. Who in the Sam Hill darns any more? Yeah, I know, they are also used for quilting. And we all know how much of THAT I do!

This machine is kind of a cross-over; a little bit of a home sewing machine and a little bit industrial. It uses regular, home sewing machine needles, but has a beefy motor and speed more similar to a commercial machine. It weighs more than most home machines (38 pounds), but is still portable enough that you can take it into a dealer for servicing. It is a single function rather than a multi-purpose machine, specializing in a perfect straight stitch. Easy to thread, easy to operate, it comes with a large extension table and a knee lift—both features I love. It only took me about 30 seconds to get used to the foot control, which has a thread cutting feature that can be activated with a “heel tap” to the foot pedal. I have to say I haven’t made friends with the needle threader yet, but I imagine with practice I will conquer it. And it is kind of annoying that changing feet requires a screwdriver, but I can deal with it.

This machine is definitely not going to replace my Bernina 710, but it is an amazing addition to my collection. I might even try sewing shirts with it!

Do you own any single-function machines? Commercial machines? This is my first foray into the “industrial” realm, and I am wishing I had jumped in earlier!

Happy sewing!
Maris

Where in the world…?

…did Sew Maris go?

Well, Italy for a few weeks in September. And then Amsterdam for a few days. Finally, back to Bellevue by the end of September.

But then…

…it was off to Camp Huston for my annual fall ASG sewing retreat. Nearly didn’t comeback from this relaxing, inspiring, invigorating time with my sewing sisters.

And then there was my overly-crazy Kids (weekend) Sew Camp schedule. And the fall ASG educational event with the uh-mazing Gail Yellen on October 17th and 18th. Heaven!

I know. Excuses, excuses!

I’m back. More soon. I promise!!

Happy sewing!

Maris